STAY
Winter retreats on the Sonoma Coast
Snuggle-worthy stays where Wine Country meets the waves
Published: Monday, December 10, 2007 at 3:00 a.m.
Last Modified: Sunday, December 9, 2007 at 9:22 p.m.
Facts
Insiders know...
Temperatures at the coast can be up to 20 degrees lower than inland areas. Add to that plenty of rain and fog during winter months. It all adds up to you needing some warm-weather gear, as well as a rain-proof jacket should you decide to venture outdoors (and trust us, you will).
Bring along some binoculars as well. Late winter is whale-watching season. Year-round, however, you'll likely see sea lions and other ocean creatures in the surf, if you look closely.
If you venture onto any of the nearby beaches, be cautious about wading in. The water is frigid, and rip tides and sneaky waves often take even experienced surfers and swimmers by surprise. Just use common sense and treat the ocean with respect.
Drinking and eating your way through Wine Country can, let's face it, leave you exhausted. Time for a vacation from your vacation.
Less than an hour's drive from the heart of Sonoma, the blustery winter coast is just the spot to curl up with a good book by a crackling fire and watch the surf roll in. Grab a snuggly robe and hole up for a day--or a week--and refuse to move a muscle. You've earned it.
Coastal stays in Sonoma county – from Bodega to Gualala – are return to the wild side of California, where there’s more to life than counting brix. Brimming with ocean views, family-friendly fun and small-town flair the coast is a getaway within a getaway.
But this is hardly the middle of nowhere. There are also plenty of top-notch restaurants, stunning wine lists, spas and rugged hikes to be had in this neck of the woods. Should you decide to venture out of your room to discover them, that is.Bodega
Okay, this place isn’t exactly on the beach, though you can see the water from the upper floor windows. But the grounds are quirkily decorated with ferro-cement sculptures by Michael Collins, unusual plants and a firepit roaring at night. An art gallery onsite is the other face of the business, selling works by local painters and sculptors. There are seven individually decorated rooms (the Library Room has books, the Music Room has a piano; if you book the Memories Room, bring or make your own) ranging from $79 to over $200 / night. Continental breakfast included, but it’s a short stroll to the popular Seaweed Café.
The Inn at the Tides
Going upscale, the Inn at the Tides has 86 luxury rooms, with views of Bodega Bay and harbor. Most rooms have their own fireplace; complimentary breakfast at the Tides Wharf Restaurant is included, and there are a fitness center, heated pool and Finnish sauna, and in-room therapeutic spa services. You get the picture. A bit different: this winter there’s a Winemaker Dinner series with representatives from Hop Kiln, Rodney Strong, Carol Shelton, and other Sonoma wineries hosting, one a month.
Inn at Duncans Mills
Duncans Mills almost looks like a film set, but you’re not sure what the movie is supposed to be. Western? Hippie road movie? Romantic thriller? Maybe staying here is the best way to find out, which brings us to the woodsy front porch of the rustic Inn at Duncans Mills. Oak antiques dominate the décor, there’s a library and game room (we’re talking darts and pool, not Wii and Xbox), four rooms downstairs, and the Attic suite upstairs with three bedrooms of its own. There's breakfast if you want it, and you can walk to the Blue Heron for dinner and live music. Downside: you can neither see nor hear the beach from here, though sometimes you can smell it.Jenner
Jenner Inn
Closer to the pounding north coast surf is the Jenner Inn, overlooking the Russian River confluence with the Pacific. There are 21 rooms and several cottages here, some with fireplaces and hot tubs, scattered about in several buildings along the river bank. You’ve got your Hot Tub Cabana, the Café and Wine Bar (with its Sonoma-centric wine list; closed in winter); massage therapists on call… River Road from Santa Rosa ends here, after passing through Guerneville; it’s easy to see why some people get no further than Jenner. Rates range from $100 to $300.Fort Ross
Fort Ross Lodge
Twelve miles up the coast from Jenner is Fort Ross, a 19th-century Russian outpost that’s now a State Park. You can explore its traditional stockade, blockhouses and log buildings, then overnight at the nearby Fort Ross Lodge. There are two dozen rooms in the main building between $100 - $200, most with fireplaces, many with patios, and ocean-facing hot tubs in six of the rooms. But if you’re feeling really romantic head for The Hill. The six units there have fireplace, wet bar, in-room sauna, a Jacuzzi built for two, and of course the ocean views. It’ll cost a bit more, but this is a special event, right? Unfortunately there’s no restaurant onsite – use the Weber kettle on your patio.
Timber Cove Inn
Just a mile north is the Timber Cove Inn, about three miles before you get to Salt Point State Park. Here the coastline is dramatic, and the Inn takes advantage of its half-mile of ocean frontage with sweeping views from many of its pricier rooms (some over five bills), plus saunas, fireplaces, vaulted redwood ceilings, an ocean view solarium… you get the picture. Even some of the budget rooms (under $100 on weekdays) have decks and skylights, and there are acres of trail over granite and heath to explore, with a Benny Bufano obelisk looming nearby.
Sea Ranch Lodge
Ah, Sea Ranch. Weathered wood homes tucked in the woods, fields of flowers in springtime, artsy neighbors and what might be called “the smart money.” Even if your ship didn’t come in – or hasn’t yet – you can stay at the Sea Ranch Lodge and get a taste of the lifestyle. Sure, it’s architecturally aware; yeah, there are oceanside trails; of course there are hot tubs in some rooms, saunas in others, and a complimentary lodge breakfast every morning. But the really good news? Dogs are welcome! He gets a dog bed, a dog bowl, his own bottled water, and even a doggie cookie. As Fido says, the good life is ruff! Rates start at $169 and range up to $395.
Sonoma-Mendocino Border
Gualala Country Inn
Before you leave Sonoma County, check out Gualala, a tiny hamlet on the coast where the eponymous river runs into the sea. There’s a real remote feeling to this stretch of the coast, in part because there’s simply no easy way to get here (Highway 1 is snarky from either 128 down from Mendocino or 12 up from Jenner, and the Skaggs Springs Rd. from Lake Sonoma is carsick city). But gray whales frequent the rivermouth area during their fall and spring migration, you can kayak up the river in warmer months, and abalone divers know this area well. The Gualala Country Inn, overlooking the river and the Pacific, has only 9 rooms, but they all have fireplaces, private baths, and cable TV (HBO in your room!). Rates from $110 - $175.
-Christian Kallen
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