An ode to the simple sandwich

My first memories of sandwiches are of warm, crisp, buttery brown triangles of white or whole-wheat bread filled with delectable melted yellow cheese. In the Kostyra household, these were served with bowls of steaming tomato soup for lunch, and we all loved that meal.

At some point, tomatoes were added to the filling, and I savored the mixture of sharp cheddar and tart slabs of homegrown Big Boy tomatoes between slices of buttery toast. The sandwich had to be cooked in a big iron skillet, the bread crisped to an even golden brown and the cheese completely melted. Otherwise, it just wasn't quite right.

I can't quite recall when I started eating the tuna fish salad sandwiches of which I became inordinately fond, nor when I first had bacon, lettuce and tomato (my current favorite), nor when I visited Houston Street in New York City with my dad and tasted a really good bagel for the first time. It was filled with the best cream cheese and thin, hand-sliced, tender smoked salmon. But those were my early forays into the world of sandwiches.

As Mother taught me, it was always about the ingredients, not complexity; freshness and contrasts, not quantity. But it was also about generosity.

I could go on and on. The more I think about sandwiches, the hungrier I become. Right now, I am going to the freezer for a hunk of pain de seigle for a grilled cheddar and tomato sandwich. What are you craving?

More sandwich recipes are available at marthastewart.com/martha-sandwiches.

Panini Bar

Makes 10 to 12 servings

2 loaves ciabatta, halved horizontally and quartered crosswise

1 loaf whole-grain bread, cut into slices ½ inch thick

-- Pesto (recipe follows)

-- Olive Tapenade (recipe follows)

½ pound each thinly sliced soppressata, prosciutto, bresaola and coppa

½ pound each thinly sliced smoked mozzarella, fresh mozzarella, provolone, fontina and ricotta cheeses

2 tomatoes, thinly sliced

1 head radicchio, leaves separated

1 bunch fresh basil

1 jar (3 ounces) best-quality anchovies

1 bunch fresh oregano

-- Lemon wedges, for squeezing

-- Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Set out ingredients for guests to build panini. Heat a panini press. Brush each sandwich with oil, and place in press. Grill according to manufacturer's instructions.

Alternatively, heat a skillet over medium-low heat. Place a sandwich in skillet and top with a smaller heavy skillet. Cook, flipping once, until bread is golden brown and cheese melts, 3 minutes to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to oven to keep warm. Repeat.

Pesto

Makes 1 cup

3 cups packed fresh basil, torn into pieces

¼ cup pine nuts

2 garlic cloves

-- Coarse salt

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

-- Freshly ground pepper

Puree basil, nuts, garlic and ½ teaspoon salt in a food processor. With machine running, slowly, add oil and process until smooth. Stir in cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Cover, and refrigerate up to 1 day.

Olive Tapenade

Makes 1¼ cups

2 cups black olives, such as Kalamata, pitted

4 anchovy fillets

½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 garlic clove

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Pulse olives, anchovies, parsley and garlic in a food processor until coarsely chopped. Stir in oil. Cover, and refrigerate up to 3 days.

Crab Salad Sandwich

Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¾ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon creme fraiche

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

1 tablespoon minced chives

-- Freshly ground peppercorns, preferably pink

8 ounces lump crabmeat

4 leaves red-leaf lettuce

1 avocado, thinly sliced

8 slices brioche, toasted

Mix lemon juice, salt, creme fraiche, shallot and chives. Season with pepper. Fold in crab. Cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Divide lettuce, avocado and crab among 4 bread slices. Sandwich with remaining slices.

Questions should be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 11 W. 42nd Street, New York, N.Y. 10036; mslletters@marthastewart.com.