Budget bubbly

<p>When a tough economy means holiday cheer is in short supply, every household is left pondering how to budget indulgence. But when it comes to that seasonal essential, a celebratory sparkling wine, slashing spending is out of the question. Or is it?</p><p>With value wines, you can toast without worrying your bubbly purchase will trip the alarm on your credit limit.</p><p>In a recent blind tasting of sparklers, there were quite a few that scored well in the $25 and under price range, giving hope to cash-strapped connoisseurs who crave a taste of decadence even in the current downturn.</p><p>"In terms of world quality of sparkling wines, I'd put (California) a close second to Champagne," said Geoff Kruth, a master sommelier who is the wine director of Forestville's Farmhouse Inn &amp; Restaurant. "I'm generally impressed with the quality of this region. We'll never compete with the best of Champagne, but we can out-perform Champagne in the $50 and under category."</p><p>The top pick of the tasting was the Roederer Estate, 25th Anniversary NV Anderson Valley Brut ($22). Other top-rated sparklers include the Domaine Chandon Brut Classic, NV California ($22) and the Mirabelle NV North Coast Brut ($22).</p><p>Such affordable yet delicious bubbly is something to celebrate.</p><p>Consumers are definitely price conscious this year, according to Ben Pearson, wine buyer for Santa Rosa's Bottle Barn.</p><p>"Sparklers are mirroring every other category," he said. "People who used to buy an $80 cabernet are now buying $40 to $50 cabernets," he said. "People who used to buy a $40 to $50 bottle of the cool, new pinot are now buying in the $20 to $25 range. Now people are asking the price."</p><p>Quality champagne is simply a pricier option. "You can get good French champagne for $30," Pearson said, "but really, the good stuff begins at $50."</p><p>Pearson said the hottest sellers in domestic sparklers are Roederer Estate, Domaine Carneros and J, but "Roederer Estate is the juggernaut and has been for years."</p><p>What makes the wine so popular? Perhaps it's the French connection. Roederer Estate has a French winemaker, Arnaud Weyrich, who said his sparklers have a "symbiotic effect, a French elegance with a California twist."</p><p>Weyrich said California's sun-kissed fruit has to be closely monitored. "If the grapes are too ripe, you can lose elegance and then sparklers are too heavy, ponderous."</p><p>How does Roederer manage to make a brut for $22? Weyrich said there are three reasons.</p><p>First, the winery relies on estate fruit from its 488 acres in Anderson Valley. "This doesn't mean the grapes are free but I don't have to buy them," he said. "When the grape prices go up, I'm immune to the grape market. That's the beauty of having estate-grown grapes."</p><p>Second, the winery has a European mindset. "The European mentality in the wine business is to look at the cost of things," he said. "We're careful not to overextend ourselves."</p><p>Finally, he said, Roederer is family-owned and is determined to spend money wisely. "We don't take that many risks," he said. "The family believes the point of making wine is to do it right. There's an investment in the brand and there's definitely a commitment and that commitment is long-term."</p><p>Weyrich said the brut's $22 price point falls within the range of the least expensive imported champagnes at $15 to $25. "We think we're as good as the French champagnes ... but if we're more expensive, it's a harder sell, because 'Champagne' is not on the bottle."</p><p>Pearson's top tip for budget-wise consumers: Shop for sparklers from this side of the pond.</p><p>"I'm still a bit of a snob and believe for the very best you have to go to Champagne," Pearson said. "But I think California's quality has increased steadily and has become more competitive with the French every year."</p><p>Staff Writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.</p>