Spring awakening with pinot noir

Located at the lower end of the Sonoma Coast appellation and distinguished by its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the Petaluma Gap wine-growing region is influenced daily by misty mornings, warm afternoons and windy evenings.

These conditions make it an ideal setting to work with pinot noir, a delicate and rather fickle grape variety that has become very popular to grow over the past decade.

Each April, the beginning of spring marks the start of a new vintage for the passionate vineyard owners and vintners who live in this area. In essence, this magical period begins when the vines begin waking up from their sleepy winter hiatus. Soon after, the young shoots begin to extend outwards, the young buds start to cross-pollinate, and the individual leaves start to imbibe the warm sunlight through the process of photosynthesis. Once these steps occur, the vintage has officially begun and for the vineyard owners there's no looking back!

To bring this process full circle, the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance recently launched a new Web site that will follow the life of these grapes from beginning to end. Founded in 2005, this spirited organization is comprised of over 50 members who are vintners, growers or wineries that source world-class fruit from the lovely Petaluma area.

In addition to upgrading the www.petalumagap.com Web site, in April and May many local members of the alliance will be hosting Vineyard Tours, a series of informal gatherings of wine enthusiasts who can visit local vineyards and wineries usually not open to the public.

To further spread the word about the organization, the alliance will also have a float in this year's Butter & Eggs Day parade. And last week, many members also participated at a pinot tasting held at Vine & Barrel wine shop in downtown Petaluma.

According to Teela Ridgeway, the president of the PGWA, the idea is to educate consumers about the unique sites and the delicious styles of wine produced with grapes grown in the area.

“Education is the number one focus for the Alliance,” said Ridgeway. “This new series of events provides great opportunities for wine fans to visit vineyards and meet winemakers and proprietors in this unique region that we are so blessed to call home.”

Here is a list of my critiques of sophisticated pinot noirs from the Petaluma Gap region currently available in the marketplace:

Clary Ranch 2006 Pinot Noir, Grower's Reserve, $40

Located on Middle Two Rock Road, the Clary Ranch is influence by its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean and Tomales Bay. Despite low yields of less than two tons per acre, this lovely wine features generous flavors of wild strawberry, cherry cola, ripe raspberry, bittersweet chocolate, and plenty of spice.

Dutton Goldfield 2007, Devil's Gulch Ranch, $55

Adjacent to the Point Reyes Peninsula in West Marin County, Devil's Gulch Ranch is a hillside location owned by Mark Pasternak and his family. This isolated location produces wines with a priceless touch of rustic elegance. This new release from Dutton-Goldfield is no exception. It features floral aromatics of rose petals and sage and intensive flavors of candied cherry, dried cranberry, black licorice, wild mushroom and forest floor.

Hart's Desire 2007 Pinot Noir, Rockin' H Ranch, $34

Located on the banks of the Petaluma River, the Rockin' H Ranch is owned by Sid and Gigi Hendricks. This medium-body wine from Hart's Desire features fragrant aromas of ripe berries, tobacco and spice, exotic flavors of wild strawberry, raspberry, black currant and mineral, chewy tannins, depth and layers of complexity.

Kastania 2006 Pinot Noir, Estate, $35

From the Kastania Ranch owned by Hoot and Linda Smith, this soft, silky and seductive wine with complex notes of wild berry, cherry, cranberry, cinnamon and cocoa. While this wine pairs nicely with fine cheeses, fish and pork, with heartier meats try the rich and intensive Kastania 2006 Proprietor's Reserve Pinot Noir ($45).

Keller Estate 2006 Pinot Noir, La Cruz Vineyard, $42

Made with grapes grown at the cool and windy La Cruz Vineyard off Lakeville Road, this tasty combination of special pinot noir clones features concentrated flavors of wild berry, ripe plum, sweet cherry, pomegranate, mineral, zesty spice, balance and structure.

Ridgeway 2006 Pinot Noir, Two Pisces Vineyard, $30

Made by talented winemaker Dan Goldfield with fruit from the Two Pisces Vineyard owned by Michael and Teela Ridgeway, this sexy wine features aromas of ripe cherry and fresh raspberry coolie. Once inside the mouth, the elegant flavor profile reveals notes of blueberry, plum, anise, vanilla, balanced tannins, and subtle spices. A classic example of Sonoma Coast style from start to finish!

Roessler 2007 Pinot Noir, Griffin's Lair Vineyard, $45

From the pristine Griffin's Lair Vineyard on Lakeville Road owned by Joan and Jim Griffin, this young, intensive wine features brilliant flavors of dark cherry, ripe raspberry, blackberry, plum, nuances of savory spice, and fine French oak.

Pfendler 2007 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $45

The tasty grapes used in this blend are from the original vineyard planted on Sonoma Mountain by Peter Pfendler in 1992. The result is a lovely unfined and unfiltered wine highlighted by bright notes of brambly boysenberry, ripe raspberry, tea leaf, cinnamon, ginger, a lush mouthfeel, vibrant acidity, and a hint of creamy oak on the finish.

(Petaluma resident Christopher Sawyer is a journalist, wine judge and the world’s only official film festival sommelier at the Sonoma Valley Film Festival held each April. He can be contacted at csawyer@sonic.net.)