Winemaker Gary Farrell's new adventure: Alysian

<p>Winemaker Gary Farrell has been making wine in Sonoma County since the early 1970s.</p><p>He met early mentor Davis Bynum while still a student at Sonoma State and became his full-time winemaker in 1978. Later, he made wine for Rochioli and Limerick Lane as well.</p><p>In 1982 he launched his own brand, Gary Farrell, with 50 cases of pinot noir from the Rochioli and Allen vineyards. Russian River Valley pinot noir remained Farrell’s signature for decades, though he also found success with chardonnay and zinfandel.</p><p>In 2004 Farrell sold his namesake brand and hilltop Westside Road winery to Allied Domecq, staying on as a consulting winemaker for a time. But after seeing the winery change hands yet again, Farrell left for good in 2006. He’s now back on the scene, on his own, set to launch Alysian Wines — “no compromise” pinot noirs and chardonnays and a chance to get back to his roots. He spoke with us about his past, present and future.</p><p>Q: Why did you sell Gary Farrell Winery?</p><p>A: Achieving financial independence, while still young, had been a goal throughout my winemaking career. In retrospect, this was a key motivation behind the construction of our Westside Road facility and rapid growth of my namesake brand between 1998 and 2003. Though I never lost my passion for winemaking, the final years at Gary Farrell were focused on expansion and building brand value for its eventual sale.</p><p>The plan (was to) sell the winery and brand for a good price, keep the vineyards and then make tiny lots of wine under a new brand from our favorite vineyard blocks. In other words, stay connected to my passion of winemaking on a small scale, but with adequate time and financial resources to pursue the many other interests in my life.</p><p>In 2003, we enlisted the assistance of two well-known financial minds to prepare and present the brand for sale. In 2004, two days after my 52nd birthday, we consummated a very successful sale to Allied Domecq. I agreed to stay on as winemaker for one year, but remained somewhat longer as consulting winemaker until my resignation in 2006.</p><p>Q: Why did you resign?</p><p>A: Initially under the ownership of Allied Domecq, it was business as usual at the winery. But after the subsequent sale to Beam Wine Estates approximately one year later, things began to deteriorate rapidly. Decisions made were based on corporate structure and efficiencies, with little consideration to the special needs of our small, high-end brand. Though I hadn’t planned to stay much longer anyway, current actions disrespecting the vision and values inherent to the brand prompted a more abrupt resignation.</p><p>Fortunately, the brand was recently acquired by a Healdsburg investment group, Ascentia, led by Jim DeBonis. I have the greatest respect for Jim. Clearly, the brand is again in good hands, which is very gratifying to me.</p><p>Q: Are you still connected to your namesake?</p><p>A: I no longer have any direct involvement with Gary Farrell Winery, and have no interest in future involvement. It’s not that I don’t care ... clearly I do. I’m simply not one to regress or look back. I’m on to the next page in my life. I do remain in contact with Gary Farrell Winery winemaker, colleague and friend Susan Reed. She is tremendously talented, and continues to produce exceptional wines for the brand.</p><p>Q: How have your past experiences shaped this new project, Alysian Wines?</p><p>A: Interestingly, I will approach this brand with similar goals as my last brand — no compromise, small-lot pinot noir production. However regarding construction, I have learned much about how to negotiate a good contract with the general contractor and will be a far better owner’s representative during construction.</p><p>Q: What are your plans in terms of building a new winery and where will it be?</p><p>A: Our wines are currently produced in our 10,000 square-foot, air-conditioned facility along Westside Road in Healdsburg. Though this facility clearly lacks compromise from a winemaking perspective, we consider it our temporary home.</p><p>Our new winery will be built at the Floodgate Vineyard along Trenton-Healdsburg Road near the town of Forestville. The design work and engineering has been completed as has the initial excavation and site preparation, but further construction was put on hold last year due to the changing economy. To be honest, we felt the price tag on the project was too high, and if we waited there would be an opportunity to build for less. This certainly was the right call as today’s price is roughly 25 percent less.</p><p>Q: What did you learn from some of the early days and early mentors you worked with, specifically Tom Dehlinger, Robert Stemmler, Davis Bynum and Joe Rochioli, and how are you applying things they inspired in you for this project?</p><p>A: Though I definitely gained inspiration and have the greatest respect for the early pioneers I worked with in the 1970s and ’80s, I chose my own somewhat unique path when it came to my style of doing business and my style of winemaking. Regarding my business style, it was not uncommon for me to offer more than the asking price for grapes and/or pay unexpected bonuses when growers delivered outstanding quality. I operated the same way with suppliers, pay top price and receive the finest barrels and corks. It seemed so logical and simple to me. Pay a little bit more, and get the best of everything.</p><p>At the end of the day, the additional money spent didn’t amount to that much per case, but translated to a significant jump in product quality. Additionally, I questioned why so many early producers produced wines only from their own vineyards. Perhaps they had to justify the expense of installation? My business model focused on the production of wines from the best of multiple vineyard properties, even after developing my own vineyards. This provided far more compelling differences between wines due to their very different and unique terroirs. Regarding my at-the-time unconventional style of winemaking, I preferred wines with far greater acidity and lower alcohol levels. This was completely contrary to how most wines were produced in the ’80s and ’90s and today for that matter. I would always be the first to pick, and was often questioned by my mentors and others for such “irrational” decisions.</p><p>Q: Is this it for you? Will this be the project that sustains you through to your real retirement and old age?</p><p>A: To be sure, I have always enjoyed a challenge. Having a significant project in my life has always been and will always be important, so who knows? For sure, I have all the stimulation I need with this new wine brand and the construction of a new residence adjacent to Mayacama (Golf Club, in Santa Rosa). In addition, my wife Debbie and I have an absolutely perfect marriage and recently became grandparents. My plate is full and life couldn’t possibly be better.</p><p>Virginie Boone is a freelance wine writer based in Sonoma County. She can be reached at virginieboone@yahoo.com or visit wineabout .pressdemocrat.com.</p>