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Wine of the week: Gallo chardonnay

Scouting for the tastiest Chardonnays

Published: Friday, August 21, 2009 at 12:03 p.m.
Last Modified: Friday, August 21, 2009 at 12:03 p.m.

Harvest for Gina Gallo means being on call.

Facts

Wine of the week

TOP PICK
Gallo Family Vineyards
2007 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($15)
**** A lively chardonnay that’s balanced and has good minerality. Aromas and flavors of pear, melon, herbs, toast and spice. Caramel finish.

Worth noting:
Dry Creek Vineyards, 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay, $20.
*** ˝ A tasty chardonnay with subtle richness. Notes of pear, apple and creme brulee. Balanced.

Kendall-Jackson, 2007 Santa Barbara Monterey, Grand Reserve Chardonnay, $21.
*** ˝ A tropical chardonnay that’s balanced and elegant. Notes of pear, melon, apple, toast and spice. A sweet finish.

Godwin, 2007 Floral Clove, Russian River Valley, $28.
*** ˝ A good chardonnay, but it isn’t particularly varietally correct. Notes of peach, nectarine, mineral and spice. Sweet up front, dry finish.

“It’s not so much the length of the days during harvest,” mused Gallo, reflecting on the spontaneity of the season. “I may have to go in at 1 a.m. or 2 a.m. to check on things. It’s all up to the grapes.”

Mother Nature may rule during harvest, but Gallo has a say at the end of the day. Together they produced our wine of the week winner, the Gallo Family Vineyards, 2007 Sonoma County Chardonnay at $15.

Some say Gallo is just the face of the winery and doesn’t spend a lot of time making wine. What’s the correct perception?

“I am involved with the wines year round, including this one,” she said. “I am totally involved during the six weeks of harvest, then I am on call during fermentation. I taste the wine every two weeks as it matures then assemble the final blend.

“Even though I enjoy traveling, sharing our wines and my family’s history, my true love is making the wine.”

Gallo said the most challenging part of harvest is “the promise you make to yourself. ... The challenge is to create the best possible wine by managing effectively the elements over which you do have control.”

The winemaker says she’s grounded during harvest — literally. “No travel during harvest,” she said. “I am focused on what is going on in the vineyards and the winery. If you miss one day, it’s akin to missing a whole week because things are moving so fast.”

Gallo said what she enjoys most about harvest is “the camaraderie and the team energy, the coming together with a common goal.”

As for the winning chardonnay, Gallo said one reason it’s a standout is because “it tastes better than the ($15) price. ... As my great uncle (Ernest Gallo) used to say, we try to make wine that ‘drinks better than the price.’ I do look at what other wines are out there at similar prices, and my goal is to create wines that consumers will see as a better value.”

Staff writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.

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