Snapper ceviche with chilled sauvignon blanc

<p>One of the most appealing qualities of our wine of the week, Groth 2008 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($18.50), is its crisp mineral backbone, a quality that is most pronounced when the wine is thoroughly chilled.</p><p>Fruit flavors are subtle and restrained, with watermelon rind, lime zest and yuzu — a Japanese citrus fruit — the most apparent, followed by green jalapeño on the long finish. </p><p>There is also just a bit of something oaky and almost smoky, subtle but present if you pay close attention.</p><p>You’ll notice a faint floral quality, too, as if the perfume of a wildflower meadow were carried on a cool breeze, a quality contributed by the 4 percent semillon blended with the sauvignon blanc.</p><p>As the wine warms, its substantial alcohol — 14.6 percent — begins to dominate, eclipsing other qualities, which is a good reason to keep the wine as chilled as possible. You might want to keep it on ice between pours.</p><p>This is a good wine for the cooler months; the alcohol will warm you as the cool characteristics, like fog on a winter morning, will flatter many of the foods best enjoyed in the winter months. </p><p>As we all hope for a good Dungeness crab season, this is a good wine to keep in mind; it is excellent with chilled crab served neat, with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon, and with crab cakes with Meyer lemon aioli.</p><p>It is similarly engaging with oysters on the half shell and a simple white wine vinegar mignonette.</p><p>This wine is also delicious with those root vegetables that can be served raw, such as jicama, carrots, fennel and radishes. </p><p>A salad of these vegetables shaved as thinly as possible and marinated in a bit of lemon or lime juice and salt is an extraordinary match; for a more substantial dish, add Oregon baby shrimp and a splash of olive oil.</p><p>For today’s recipe, I’ve turned to a classic ceviche, this one adapted from a recipe in Paul Johnson’s outstanding book, “Fish Forever: The Definitive Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Preparing Healthy, Delicious, and Environmentally Sustainable Seafood” (Wiley, 2007, $34.95).</p><p>Snapper Ceviche</p><p>Makes 4 to 6 servings</p><p>1pound snapper (or other mild-flavored firm white-fleshed fish) fillets, cut into 1/3-inch dice</p><p>¼cup freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more as needed</p><p>1tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice, plus more as needed</p><p>—Kosher salt</p><p>1jalapeño, seeded and minced</p><p>¼cup diced white onion</p><p>½qcup diced tomato</p><p>2tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro</p><p>12corn tortillas</p><p>—Refined peanut oil or another high-heat oil for frying</p><p>Put the diced fish in a small stainless steel or glass bowl and cover with the lime juice and orange juice. </p><p>Be sure the fish is completely covered; if more citrus juice is needed, add 1 part orange for every 4 parts lime juice. Stir in a generous half teaspoon of salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and preferably 2 or 3.</p><p>Thirty minutes before serving, stir in the jalapeño, onion, tomato and cilantro.</p><p>Put the ceviche into a serving bowl set on a large plate.</p><p>Cut the tortillas into wedges and cook in hot oil until they puff up, turning once as they cook. </p><p>Drain, sprinkle with salt and and set on the plate with the ceviche. </p><p>Serve immediately, while the tortilla wedges are still hot.</p><p>Michele Anna Jordan hosts “Mouthful” each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.</p>