Classic cioppino with pinot noir

Given the wine's pretty delicacy and freshness, it is nearly impossible not to compare it to Beaujolais Nouveau, released on the third Thursday of November when it is just a couple of months old.

Garnet is released around its first birthday, just in time to enjoy with fall's harvest and winter's holiday feasts. It has more flair than Beaujolais Nouveau and tender prettiness that you rarely find in a wine this young.

Saintsbury was one of the first contemporary producers of pinot noir to shepherd the grape to its full expression and the winery remains masterful with what many winemakers consider the most difficult varietal.

Garnet represents a blend of the vintage's lightest lots, chosen for their charm, their seductive perfume and their delicacy. It is meant to be enjoyed in its youth, as the rest of the vintage remains in the cellar to mature.

When it comes to pairing this delightful wine with food, it is almost easier to talk about what it doesn't go with than what it does, as it opens its arms wine to embrace a broad diversity of flavors and textures. The things we eat now — winter squash, turkey, slow-cooked meats and such — are all flattered by this wine.

Certain foods might overwhelm it but it will stand up to many hearty dishes, from meatloaf and spaghetti marinara to beef Bourguignon, traditionally served with Beaujolais Nouveau.

With the right condiment, you can enjoy the wine with raw oysters and if you like your Dungeness crab served chilled with a good Louis dressing, this wine is ideal alongside.

For today's recipe, I've turned to one of my versions of classic cioppino, in part because several people have asked me about it recently, in part because it is the perfect time of year to enjoy it and in part because many of the recipes I come across don't do justice to this great dish. 

Cioppino

Makes 6 to 8 servings

3tablespoons olive oil

1yellow onion, cut into small dice

1celery rib, minced

6 to 8garlic cloves, crushed and minced

—Kosher salt

2cups dry white wine

1bay leaf

½teaspoon red pepper flakes

1tablespoon fresh minced oregano or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

1teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

4cups tomato concasse (see Note below) or 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen brand

1cup minced fresh Italian parsley

3Dungeness crab, cooked and cleaned

3pounds small clams or cockles, thoroughly washed

2pounds black mussels, trimmed, if needed, and thoroughly washed

2pounds wild prawns, headed and deveined

—Black pepper in a mill

—Sourdough bread, hot

—Extra virgin olive oil, preferably Davero Olio Nuovo

Pour the olive oil into a large heavy soup pot or Dutch oven set over medium low heat. Add the onion and celery and saute until soft and fragrant, about 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic, saute 1 minute more and season with salt. Add the white wine and stir in the pepper flakes, oregano, thyme and tomatoes. 

Increase the heat to high, bring to a boil and immediately reduce the heat to very low; simmer for 15 minutes. Taste and correct for salt. Stir in the parsley.

Meanwhile, break apart the crab if you have not already done so; break the body into 4 pieces and separate the segments of the legs and claws. Sort through the clams or cockles and the mussels to remove any that don't close tightly, that are obviously empty (they will be very light) or that are filled with mud (these will be the ones that open very easily, without resistance). 

Put the clams or cockles and the mussels into the pot, cover and simmer over medium heat for 4 minutes. Add the crab and simmer 2 minutes. Stir in the prawns, cook for 1 minutes, remove from the heat and let rest, covered, for 5 minutes. 

Taste the broth, correct for salt and season generously with black pepper.

To serve, ladle into large soup bowls, making sure that each portion has a good mix of seafood. Drizzle with olive oil and serve immediately, with the hot bread and more olive oil alongside.

Note: If you freeze tomato concasse, this is a great time to use some of it. If you do not, you should use good canned tomatoes, as tomatoes are now out of season.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts “Mouthful” each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail Jordan at michele@micheleannajordan.com.