Pairing: Hard to go wrong with sauvignon blanc

This particular sauvignon blanc is a classic example of New Zealand's way with the grape. At its core is Ruby grapefruit, with a suggestion of pomelo undulating under those grapefruit flavors. Next comes gooseberry, passionfruit and a hint of not-quite-ripe kiwi. Around the edges you'll notice a suggestion of fresh green herbs, nothing that you can identify specifically but that may leave you thinking of the scent of nettles and wild thyme warmed by the sun.

Although the acidity is pretty, bright and refreshing, there's a fullness on the palate, too, something akin to lusciousness that becomes more pronounced as the wine warms in the glass.

When it comes to pairing the wine with food, it is hard to go wrong. A simple appetizer of French breakfast radishes, butter and sea salt will be flattered by this wine, as will oysters on the half shell. Ceviches and seafood salads, especially with citrus dressings, are sensational with this wine. It also welcomes many green vegetables, from arugula, asparagus, avocado and sugar snap peas to yellow carrots and Chiogga beets.

Cowgirl Creamery's wonderful Pierce Point, a cow's milk cheese made in the fall and available now, is a beautiful companion; both the cheese and the wine have a sunny quality that is magnified when they are enjoyed together.

For today's recipe, I can't resist suggesting you go to the trouble to make scallop carpaccio, as it is a flawless match. It is not difficult, but if you have not worked with scallops in this way, it can take a bit of practice to get the slices thin enough. That's why the instructions call for putting the scallops into the freezer, where they will firm up, making slicing easier. If you are adept with a raw scallop and a sharp knife, you can skip this step. And if you are averse to raw shellfish, feel free to use chilled Dungeness crab meat in its place.

Scallop Carpaccio with Avocado, Citrus and Lemon Vinaigrette

Makes 4 to 6 servings

2cups citrus segments (see Note below)

4 to 6very fresh sea scallops, chilled in the freezer for 20 minutes

1small shallot, minced

1lemon, cut in half

—Kosher salt

3tablespoons Meyer lemon olive oil, such as Davero or O

1firm-ripe avocado

1green onion, very thinly sliced

1 or 2radishes, cut into paper-thin rounds

—Black pepper in a mill

First, chill individual appetizer plates.

Prepare the citrus segments if you have not already done so.

Set the scallops on a clean work surface and cut each one into the thinnest slices possible. To do so, you must have a very sharp, somewhat long (i.e., not a paring knife) knife. Begin by using the fingers of your left hand to press down gently on one scallop; slice off the top of the scallop; it should be no thicker than 1/8-inch; 1/16 is better. Continue until the entire scallop has been sliced and repeat until you have sliced all the scallops. Put the sliced scallops onto a chilled plate or piece of wax paper, cover and refrigerate.

Put the shallot into a small bowl; squeeze about a tablespoon of lemon juice over it; use a small spoon to remove any seeds. Season with salt and agitate the bowl to dissolve it. Add the olive oil, taste and correct for salt and acid. Set aside.

Cut the avocado in half lengthwise and remove the seed. Use a very sharp knife to cut the avocado into thin lengthwise slices, cutting to but not through the skin. Use a soup spoon to carefully remove the avocado flesh.

To finish the dish, set the chilled plates near your work surface and fan out a few avocado slices off-center on each plate. Spoon a mound of citrus segments alongside.

Remove the scallops from the refrigerator and arrange them in a single layer opposite the avocado slices. Season the scallops and avocado with salt.

Drizzle a little dressing over each salad, making sure that most of the dressing goes onto the scallops and avocado. Scatter onion and radish over each portion and serve immediately.

Note: For citrus segments, I recommend a mix of Ruby grapefruit, blood orange, Meyer lemon, tangerine and lime but you can adjust this based on what you have as long as some of the citrus is sweet. To make the segments cut a slice off each end of each citrus. Use a sharp knife to remove the skin and pith by cutting from top to bottom, following the shape of the fruit. Holding the fruit over a bowl, cut between the membranes to release each segment, which should be completely free of skin, pith and membrane. If you like, squeeze the juice out of the remaining membrane after removing the fruit segments. Let the segments marinate in their own juice until ready to serve.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts “Mouthful” each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail Jordan at michele@micheleannajordan.com.