Delicate Dungeness

<p>For those who are fans of the delicate Dungeness crab, it's time to get crackin' and reserve a seat at one of the many crab feed extravaganzas coming up this month and next.</p><p>Although it may seem like every nonprofit in the North Bay has launched its own version of this quintessential seafood feast, not all crab feeds are created equal. It's important to figure out what you're looking for before you plunk down your hard-earned cash.</p><p>“You need to understand that if there are 800 people being served, you are not going to have a nice, quiet conversation,” said Barbara Flores, president of the Elsie Allen High School Project Grad.</p><p>The Project Grad crab feed, set for 6 p.m. Jan. 30 at the Center of Spiritual Living in Santa Rosa, is a low-key affair that “dreams” of selling tickets to 200 diners.</p><p>“We are gaining a reputation for the quiet, intimate affair,” Flores said. “Some people want a quiet setting and conversation.”</p><p>On the other hand, the Sonoma County Farm Bureau is expecting to serve more than 1,200 crustacean lovers on Feb. 6 during its 21st annual crab feed in the Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds.</p><p>That event — probably the largest in the county — is known for its over-the-top food and wine, starting with a reception featuring wine and hors d'oeuvres and an impressive lineup of auction lots, including a CK Lamb dinner for 12.</p><p>Somewhere in the middle, you'll find the Rotary Club of Santa Rosa West's crab feed on Jan. 30 — “The Good, the Crab and the Ugly” — a 27-year tradition that attracts loyal fans with its playful theme, decorations and cocktails. The club expects from 500 to 600 people to show up this year for the margaritas, wine, crab and lasagna.</p><p>“It's an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can drink affair, with live music for dancing,” said David McDonald, a past president of the club. “Come early and start drinking.”</p><p>In general, the higher the ticket price, the more perks you can expect to receive, from dazzling decor and appetizers to desserts and dancing. Some feeds, such as Ursuline High School's on Jan. 29 and 30, offer the best of both worlds: an old-fashioned, no-frills version one night, and an elaborate, epicurean experience the next night.</p><p>“On Saturday, we bring out the round tables and the fine china, so it's much more elegant,” Development Director Margaux Hardy said of the 28-year event, purportedly the longest running crab feed in Sonoma County.</p><p>Here's a rundown of the questions to ask, before you make your reservation:</p><p>1. Will it be all it's cracked up to be?</p><p>It's a good idea to ask if the crab comes cracked, and if you should bring your own crab crackers and forks. If you're trying to eat local, you might also inquire about where the crab comes from.</p><p>Ursuline High School's crab feed, which was started by the folks who own Paolo's Ravioli Deli in Santa Rosa, always provides fresh crab from the Tides Wharf in Bodega Bay.</p><p>“It's cracked right here on site,” Hardy said. “They drive in a truck on Friday, and the boys from Cardinal Newman crack it.”</p><p>2. What about condiments?</p><p>Some crab feeds serve cocktail sauce and lemons but can't cope with melted butter. If you've got to have butter, ask if it's all right to bring your own butter and warmer. Some crab feeds do not allow open flames.</p><p>You can also bring your own salad dressings, such as a Thousand Island dressing, which comes in handy if you are a fan of San Francisco-style Crab Louis. Just crack the crab and pile it on top of the salad, then top with the dressing.</p><p>3. Can I bring my own wine?</p><p>If bottomless glasses of wine are not included in your crab feed, ask if you can bring your own wine and, if so, if there is a corkage fee.</p><p>“We let people bring wine, but since we sell wine, we're going to charge $5 for corkage,” Flores said. “That's not much, but at least it's something.”</p><p>Some folks also like to bring their own wine glasses. To each his own.</p><p>4. What should I wear? </p><p>If you want to wear a fancy outfit, go ahead. Just don't expect anyone else to be dressed up, even if you're going to an elegant affair with white tablecloths and china.</p><p>“People don't expect you to bring out your tuxes,” Hardy said.</p><p>“People show up in their cowboy boots,” McDonald said. “It's not a formal affair.”</p><p>5. To bib or not to bib?</p><p>Anyone who has ever eaten a serious plate of Dungeness crab knows that the juices, shells and fat are going to fly, no matter how careful you are.</p><p>Some crab feeds supply bibs, but others do not. If you don't want an expensive dry cleaning bill, ask first or bring your own, just in case.</p><p>“Some people come with their own little tablecloth and they set up,” Hardy said. “You can tell they've been there before.”</p><p>6. First there's dinner, but then what?</p><p>Some people just want to eat. Others like to party and dance. Make sure you know what kind of live music there will be so you won't get caught off guard.</p><p>Ursuline's Saturday night crab feed features music by the Cheeseballs, a party band that covers music from the '70s, '80s and '90s.</p><p>The Elsie Allen Project Grad crab feed, on the other hand, features mellow music by an eight-piece jazz band from the school.</p><p>Pick something that appeals to you. Or bring earplugs.</p><p>7. What should I know about the bidding battle?</p><p>If you're interested in supporting the accompanying auction, do a little bit of homework ahead of time.</p><p>Sometimes you can find great deals at small crab feeds, where there isn't a lot of competition. Other times, a large affair with a lot of auction items can give you a better shot.</p><p>Wine geeks will want to patronize crab feeds that are supported by local wine families, such as the Farm Bureau or the Ursuline High School crab feeds.</p><p>“If you like wine, it's a great place to go to get a great deal,” Hardy said of the Ursuline feed. “You can go home with a couple of cases of wine and not feel a huge dent in your pocket.”</p><p>8. Got leftovers?</p><p>Most crab feeds sell their leftover crab, all bagged up and ready to go, for $10 to $20 a bag. Bring some extra cash and you'll be enjoying crab cakes for a week. But don't expect to take home extra crab for nothing.</p><p>“We had a lady once with a big purse and a big bag in the middle,” Hardy said. “We had to politely say, that's enough doggie bag.”</p><p>You can reach Staff Writer Diane Peterson at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com.</p>