North Coast's Italian whites

<p>Pinot grigio, a classic Italian white, has been popular for years and is made in a range of styles and quality levels. But North Coast producers, particularly in Sonoma and Mendocino where ties to Italy run deep, have begun to grow increasing amounts of their own arneis, moscato and tocai friulano grapes. They are native to the Piedmont and Friuli regions of Italy and very rarely are found on this side of the New World.</p><p>Many of these Italian white wine varieties are known for their crisp acidity, refreshing fruitiness and gentle lightness of being, making them the ideal wines to reach for in summer. Others are more richly styled and are good accompaniments to summertime seafood.</p><p>Barra of Mendocino</p><p>Grower Charlie Barra, son of an Italian immigrant who came to Mendocino in the early 1900s, will work his 66th harvest this year. He lived through Prohibition, the home winemaking market, the Depression, World War II, driving grapes down to Livermore in the 1950s and the planting of dozens of varieties.</p><p>He produces two classic Italian whites, muscat canelli ($16) and pinot grigio ($18), both from organically grown grapes. Or try Barra's Sweet Thang Natural White ($13), a blend of chardonnay and muscat canelli that's sweet and creamy.</p><p>Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 7051 North State St., Redwood Valley, 485-0322, www.barraofmendocino.com.</p><p>Graziano Family of Wines</p><p>Greg Graziano, whose Italian grandparents planted grapes in Mendocino in 1918, makes a range of Italian wines from grapes grown in the Ukiah Valley. His Monte Volpe label honors the red grapes of Tuscany and the whites of Friuli.</p><p>There's both a pinot grigio ($14) and tocai friulano ($10), the latter a richly honeyed and floral wine that is full of grapefruit, honeysuckle and allspice.</p><p>Under Graziano's Enotria label, there's arneis and moscato ($10). Arneis is rich with crisp acidity and distinctive aromas and flavors of green apple, pear and almonds It is considered a worthy alternative to chardonnay, with a long, intense finish.</p><p>The Enotria moscato is made in a Moscato d'Asti style, fragrant with the aromas of pears, peaches and green apples, light, a little fizzy and slightly sweet.</p><p>Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 13251 S. Highway 101, Hopland, 744-8466, www.grazianofamilyofwines.com</p><p>Jacuzzi Family Vineyards</p><p>Jacuzzi makes it all: arneis, moscato bianco, pinot grigio, tocai friulano. But maybe most intriguing is its vernaccia, a lemony white wine ($22) from grapes grown in Carneros that are thought to have originated in the San Gimignano region of Italy. Vernaccia was considered during the time of the Renaissance to be the country's greatest white wine. It may not exist anywhere else in California.</p><p>Open daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; 24724 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 931-7575, www.jacuzziwines.com.</p><p>Mahoney Vineyards</p><p>A pioneer in experimenting with pinot noir clones, Mahoney first released a vermentino in 2003, sourcing the grapes from its own cool-climate, 95-acre Las Brisas Vineyard in Carneros, where it also grows much-coveted pinot noir, montepulciano and tempranillo. At $13, it is a floral white with peach and citrus notes.</p><p>Owners Francis and Kathleen Salverazza Mahoney first planted the Italian varieties after a 2000 trip to Liguria (vermentino's native home) to visit Kathleen's extended family. The Mahoneys liken the vermentino to riesling on the nose (bright and floral) and to sauvignon blanc (crisp, dry and clean) in taste. It is perfect as an aperitif or with a host of summertime seafood dishes.</p><p>Open daily noon-7 p.m.; Taste at Oxbow, 708 First St., Napa, 265-9600, www.mahoneyvineyards.com.</p><p>Parducci Wine Cellars</p><p>Parducci of Mendocino makes a Signature Arneis-Tocai Friulano ($15), sourcing from Ukiah Valley's nearby Foxhill Vineyard. It's a full-bodied, dry white with apple and peach flavors and a hint of spicy earth.</p><p>Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 501 Parducci Road, Ukiah, 463-5350, www.parducci.com.</p><p>Seghesio Family Vineyards</p><p>At one time the largest grower of arneis in the United States, Seghesio grows the Italian white variety on its Keyhole Ranch in the northern Russian River Valley. It's a primo pinot noir and chardonnay spot that also grows pinot grigio and fiano, another white grape that is natively grown in Campania near the Amalfi Coast.</p><p>The Seghesio's roots trace directly back to Piedmont, so the winery pays homage to its family history with arneis ($20), a crisp, dusty wine that's full-bodied yet modest in alcohol (13.3 percent). Seghesio, which last week was acquired by Napa-based Crimson Wine Group, is also the first modern Sonoma grower to plant fiano ($20), a white that's both creamy and crisp with a floral nose and flavors of pear and honey.</p><p>Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 700 Grove St., Healdsburg, (866) 734-4374, www.seghesio.com.</p><p>Stephen &amp; Walker</p><p>Stephen &amp; Walker makes the very lovely Patrona Muscat Canelli ($38) with grapes grown in Alexander Valley. It is a summertime wine bursting with aromas of passionfruit, orange blossom and honeysuckle with an inviting taste of pear. The wine is slightly frizzy, low in alcohol (10 percent) and meant to be drunk ice cold.</p><p>Open daily 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; 243 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 431-8749, www.trustwine.com.</p><p>VJB Vineyards &amp; Cellars</p><p>Sonoma Valley's VJB makes a tocai friulano from Mendocino fruit ($24) that is rich in tropical fruit aromas and flavors, with plenty of acidity and length to pair beautifully with food.</p><p>Proprietors Vittorio and Maria Belmonte, originally from Bonito in southern Italy, became known for their Italian cooking at Café Portofino in Santa Rosa, which they ran for 15 years. Today Maria Belmonte makes a line of sauces, pestos and tapenades to pair with the family winery's Italian varieties.</p><p>Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 9077 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 833-2300, www.vjbcellars.com.</p><p>Virginie Boone is a freelance wine writer based in Sonoma County. She can be reached at virginieboone @yahoo.com.</p>