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Beer making a splash in Sonoma County

  • The Quacker, featuring maple leaf ground duck, seasonal chutney, swiss cheese and fried onion rings, is paired with Maibock beer at Bear Republic Brewing Co. in Healdsburg. (CHRISTOPHER CHUNG/ PD)

Sean Z. Paxton is the Homebrew Chef, a professional chef and home brewer who hosts a monthly show called “The Home Brewed Chef” on The Brewing Network. He also maintains a website (homebrewchef.com) devoted to beer cuisine, cooking with beer, pairing beers with food and sharing techniques for how to do it all at home.

“Beer is such a rich subject right now. There are so many different styles,” he said. “A lot of people don't understand that it's not our father's or grandfather's drink anymore.”

It's much more complicated.

“For people who like wine, they can understand the flavor descriptors that are taught to them,” he added, “things like black cherries, blackberries and peppercorn. But beer is so much more intimidating.”

He says that's because there are 95 different beer styles, and craft brewers are constantly experimenting with new flavor combinations and ingredients, like cocoa nibs, cinnamon, fig, oak chips and brown sugar.

Then there are all the variations in the taste of hops, malt, yeast and water, depending on where they're from.

That's what makes beer such a fun and exploratory category at the moment, Paxton said, if only people could begin looking at it a little more like wine, setting up side-by-side tastings of similar styles made by different producers and really taking the time to taste each one.

“Each beer is very different. How they use the yeast is very different, how they treat it, how they pitch it, what temperature they ferment at — all can change the flavor profile,” Paxton said. “Two IPAs are never going to taste the same, and one person's version of a stout is going to be different from another's.”

Still, he does have some ground rules to offer. While most wine pairings are contrasting — pairing a wine to contrast a dish's flavors — he finds that it's better to pair beer and food that complement in flavors rather than contrast.

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