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Winemaking at Jack London's ranch

  • Lou Leal, a docent at Jack London State Park, walks through the foundations of the old winery in Glen Ellen. (CONNER JAY / The Press Democrat)

Jack London never made wine or, for that matter, had much to do with growing grapes. But the history of winemaking and grape growing goes back to before London's time on the property where he eventually lived and died, and where the ruins of a winery, distillery and sherry barn still stand, at Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen.

Park docent Lou Leal, a home winemaker and former educator, can explain it all, having compiled an extensive amount of research on the subject of winemaking at Jack London Ranch, also known as the Beauty Ranch, where Leal leads tours.

“I've admired Jack London's writing ever since I was a kid,” Leal said. “That's how I got involved. The wine connection was a coincidence.”

Winemaking At Jack London State Park

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In Leal's telling, the parcel of land where the winery ruins now stand, just off the upper parking lot near the park's entrance, originally belonged to Hungarian immigrant Lajos Csomortanyi. He was a friend of another native of Hungary, Agoston Haraszthy, the founder of Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma.

Buena Vista was established in 1857. Around that same time, Csomortanyi, who served as director of Buena Vista Winery for a time, was encouraged by Haraszthy to buy 500 acres of land in Sonoma Valley from General Mariano Vallejo, where he planted 60 acres to vines and constructed a small stone winery and four-room, wood-frame cottage.

This land eventually became part of the Jack London Ranch, and the cottage is where London lived, wrote and died.

Csomortanyi called his land the “Tokay Vineyard,” presumably in homage to Hungary's most famous wine, a sweet white named for the region of Tokaj.

Csomortanyi died less than a decade into his winery ownership. In 1873, his business partner, Jackson Temple, an associate justice of the Supreme Court of California who would settle in Santa Rosa, sold the property to Kohler & Frohling, a successful wine company out of San Francisco.

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