LeBaron: When wine got its own library

The hook upon which today's bit of history hangs is the silver anniversary of the Sonoma County Wine Library. This occasion will be celebrated next Saturday with tours and refreshments and some speeches, I'm sure, in the library at the corner of Piper and Center streets in Healdsburg.

The establishment of this archive in Healdsburg's new branch library was a milepost on the road to Wine Country — that address, title, designation, that industry — which demands so much attention in the present day.

Think about it this way: If you were born in the 1960s, you probably don't remember when this wasn't Wine Country.

If you had told a gathering of prune farmers, apple growers or chicken ranchers in Sonoma County in the 1930s that it would one day be a world tourism destination predicated on some 400 wineries, and that Healdsburg, the "Buckle of the Prune Belt," would bring scholars, historians and wine writers to visit a wine library, such ideas would get you laughed out of the Grange Hall.

Change isn't linear. It comes in fits and starts. The changes in Sonoma County's agriculture did not burst full bloom upon our landscape. We morphed into Wine Country gradually.

Jet planes made it possible for people to eat fresh fruit all year long — apples from New Zealand, berries from Chile, melons from Mexico. The canned and dried fruit market — dare I say? — dried up. Prunes came to be regarded with a snicker. The demand for dried apples and canned applesauce diminished. By the mid- to late 1960s, prune orchards had begun to fade away. Apples hung in longer, but the die was cast. Farmland became available. And wine consumption was on the rise. Outside money took note. Wealthy people from many surging industries, like computers and aerospace, cast investment eyes at Napa and Sonoma counties.

By the early 1980s — maybe 15 years from the first big push to boutique wineries and 10 years out from the landmark "Tasting of Paris," when Time magazine publicized the triumph of two Napa wines over the best of the French — California wine became a hot topic. Sonoma County was openly competing with Napa for the respect of the wine writers, collectors and growing number of imbibers. Comic Tom Smothers, a Kenwood vineyard owner, put it succinctly. "Sonoma makes wine. NAPA makes auto parts." And talk of a wine library began.

Bo Simons, the first wine librarian, tells the story. It started, he says, at Geyser Peak Winery and spread to the Russian River Wine Road, a consortium of vintners and grape growers created to call attention to the wines produced in the northern part of the county.

They envisioned a designated spot where information about wine, its science and its history would be assembled and available to the industry and to the public. It would be funded by the wineries and their support system.

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