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Pairings: Slow-cooked salmon with pinot noir

Let's have some fun, shall we? By fun, I mean, there's no need to take this wine pairing thing too terribly seriously, especially here in the midst of such an abundance of great wine. It is not news that the North Coast, from the lowlands of Lakeville to the coastal hills of Mendocino, yields some of the most seductive pinot noir in the world. This plethora of great wines includes our Wine of the Week, La Crema 2012 Los Carneros Pinot Noir ($40), which is both rich and playful, in a husky kind of way. The wine has broad appeal, both in the range of people who will enjoy it and in the variety of foods that will welcome it. You don't need to look very far for a flawless match. Flawless matches are everywhere.

As the first hint of fragrance rises from the glass, I find myself thinking of my step-grandfather, whose simple kisses surrounded me in a halo of cherry tobacco. I also remember him sitting in his lounge chair, carefully cleaning his beloved pipe and packing in another bowlful of his favorite flavor.

That's this wine, a combination of dark cherry and pipe tobacco, with new leather, a hint of licorice root, dark roasted coffee beans, toasted cloves, black plums and a fillip of milk chocolate, all rising from a lush, broad foundation that embraces the palate like expensive satin.

At the table, the wine will work beautifully with just about any red meat, from delicate rack of lamb to robust venison stew. Mushrooms, bacon, roasted tomatoes, roasted parsnips and rich but not sharp cheeses will further any match.

How about spaghetti Bolognese? You bet. Pizza? Definitely. Sausage and polenta? For sure. Kalua pig? Yep. Eggplant and Fontina panini? Most definitely.

The wine is also a natural with wild Pacific King salmon, especially grilled or roasted in a slow oven so that it retains its succulence. The salmon is the inspiration for today's recipe and the accompaniments are, simply, for fun. Delicious fun. When Blue Lake green beans or haricots verts ripen, they will make an excellent addition, provided you cook them properly, which is to say just enough so that they lose their raw texture and their flavors blossom.

<b>Slow-Cooked Salmon with Bacon, Fried Tomatoes and Beurre Rouge</b>

Makes 4 servings.

<i>4 very fresh fillets of local wild Pacific King salmon, about 6 ounces each, scaled


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