17-ounce jar tarama (mullet roe) or other inexpensive caviar

?small (about ? cup) minced red onion

2medium russet potatoes, baked and riced (see Note)

1tablespoon minced lemon zest

-Juice of 2 lemons

?cup extra-virgin olive oil

2tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1baguette, thinly sliced

2bunches small radishes, cleaned and trimmed

1cucumber, thinly sliced

?cup olives of choice

Using a large suribachi, grind together the tarama and onion until fairly smooth. Use a rubber spatula to fold the riced potatoes and lemon zest into the mixture. Add the lemon juice slowly, mix until completely incorporated and then add the olive oil, a little at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the parsley, taste and add a little more olive oil if the mixture is too tart. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 1 hour before serving.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Put the baguette slices on a baking sheet, brush with a little olive oil, and toast until golden brown, about 15 minutes. To serve, place the toasts in a small basket. Transfer the taramosalata to a serving bowl, set it on a plate, and surround with the radishes, cucumber slices and olives. Serve immediately, with the basket of croutons alongside.

Note: Pierce clean potatoes in several places with a fork and bake at 375 degrees until tender, about 40 minutes. Let cool until easy to handle. Use both hands to break each potato in half and then place the halves, one at a time, into a potato ricer with the interior part of the potato facing into the ricer. Press the potatoes through (as you would garlic through a press), open the ricer and remove and discard the skin. Repeat. There is no substitute for the light, uniform texture of riced potatoes; mashing results in a denser and less even mixture.