Shafer, 2004 Stag's Leap District Hillside Select, $215

***** A complex cab with a depth of flavors. Intense, with a great concentration of fruit. Big but ripe tannins. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, plum, toast and caramel. Fleshy.

Symmetry (Rodney Strong), 2005 Meritage, Alexander Valley, $60

**** A cab with great structure, but it also manages to be supple. Has a deep core of fruit. Notes of black cherry, cherry, currant and spice. Tannins kick in on the finish.

Sebastiani, 2005 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $24

*** ? A juicy wine that's approachable. A great barbecue cab. Notes of black cherry, spice, vanilla and toast, with a hint of caramel.