Morgan Twain Peterson doesn't consider himself a winemaker so much as a former "wannabe academic" who has fallen in love with California's history and ancient vineyards.

Peterson, owner of Sonoma's Bedrock Wine Co., is behind our wine-of-the-week winner: Shebang! North Coast Cuvee II White Wine at $12.

"The most exciting part is making a wine that I feel really over-delivers for the price point — something I take pride in across all of the wines at Bedrock Wine Company," Peterson said.

The Shebang! is vibrant, with nice acid and layered flavors. It has notes of peach, mineral and a hint of honey, with a lingering finish. Shebang! is a nonvintage blend of 40 percent pinot gris, 10 percent sauvignon blanc, 5 percent albari?, and the remainder old-vine semillon and muscadelle.

Peterson, 32, is one of the youngest winemakers to own his own winery, and he has always had a precocious palate. When he was 5 years old, he said, he could tell the difference between merlot and zinfandel.

"Some people call me that (precocious) ... But I feel I have so much more to master before I know what the hell I'm doing," Peterson said in an earlier interview. "Plato said 'The wise man is he who knows he does not know.'"

Bedrock, founded in 2007, produces 24 different wines that range from 25 to 1,000 cases, plus the two Shebang! wines (red and white) each ranging from 1,000 to 3,000 cases.

"My goal with Bedrock has always been to make delicious wines of place, usually sourced from very unique vineyards," Peterson said. "... There are no plans to actively grow Bedrock Wine Co. unless more amazing vineyards come my way. I don't have a number in mind that I need to hit, production- wise. What is more important is that I stay small enough that I can be completely hands-on with the wine."

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 521-5310 or