LeBaron: How Sonoma County's prized potato got its start

  • Emmett Hopkins, owner of Foggy River Farm, holds Bodega Red potatoes that he grew at the farm in Healdsburg, California on Thursday, July 11, 2013. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)

History comes in many forms — some of it, apparently, edible.

The foodies are currently all about the resurrection of a local potato known as the "Bodega Red."

We see by the food pages that the Sonoma County North chapter of Slow Food, the international organization established in Italy 24 years ago to combat the effects of fast food on our civilization, has taken up the case of the potato that made Sonoma County rich. For a few early years, at least.

With the good offices of the Sonoma County Land Trust and the work of Department of Agriculture geneticists, survivors of this pioneer crop have been duly identified and named. And they are growing, carefully tended by admiring New Age farmers.

This is interesting stuff for local historians as well as those who pursue food truths in laboratories with microscopes.

Scientists have determined these few survivors are indeed Bodega Red potatoes, thought by many to be lost to the ages.

Scientists can do that. Historians have a harder time. Often, they can only surmise from tales told. Although in the case of this particular potato, there seems to be remarkable amount of agreement.

The Bodega Red, geneticists say, is the product of a Peruvian ancestor. This is hardly a surprise. Most potatoes as we know them, came from ancestors in the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes. (Ask the knowledgeable owners of Sazon restaurant on Sebastopol Road. Peruvians know their potatoes.)

If there is a mystery involved, it is how that Peruvian potato came here to be modified by the soil and climate of the Sonoma coast.

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