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Berger: Sweet reds that are dry

A situation is developing that surely will pose problems for some wine lovers and at the same time may thrill new wine consumers.

And it is utterly insidious because no one is writing about it and wine merchants seem unwilling to discuss it.

I refer to sweet red wines that pretend that they're dry.

A recent trend among some wine companies is to make sweet red wines and label them to reveal that fact. The phrase "Sweet Red" is popping up on many labels — a trend I applaud. But what also seems to be happening is a new style of red wine that isn't so labeled, and looks for all the world as if it's dry. But it isn't. At least to me.

I realize that the word "dry" is in the mouth of the taster. What's dry to you could well be sweet to me. And this leads us to a complex discussion of acid levels, pH, and other factors that are hard to describe in print.

To truly reveal the problems I face in writing about this, I would have to pour you four or five red wines and see what you, and I, thought about their dryness or sweetness levels. Such a tactic was used successfully at a major Riesling event recently in Washington since the amount of sweetness in a Riesling is crucial to potential Riesling buyers.

The situation may be a lot graver to buyers of red wines, especially those who hope to age them. That's because years after a wine is purchased, it's pretty hard for a disappointed buyer to go back to a wine merchant and say, "Hey, I thought this wine I was buying was dry. But it isn't."

Some years ago it was apparent that some expensive cabernet sauvignons were being sold with acid levels that I believed to be insufficient for the wines to age well. Many of these wines were flabby and tasted slightly sweet; some may have had more than a trace of sugar.

Since higher acidity and lower pH are directly correlated with the slow and appropriate red wine maturity process, these lower-acid, higher-pH reds were disturbing. Some people liked them when the wines were young, but I believed they were doomed as aging wines.

Since I almost never write about badly structured wines, I assumed that the old saying about caveat emptor - buyer beware - applied. And I ignored them, and still do.

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