Pairings: Classic pinot a sweet find

Our Wine of the Week, The Loring, 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($32) is a classic example of how this beloved varietal blossoms in this appellation, which is one of the best places in the United States for pinot noir. Tannins are long and soft, acid is bright and lively and the wine splashes over the palate with an enticing delicacy.

There is, at first, a suggestion of sweetness, a result of the wine's substantial alcohol, 14.7 percent. Focus on flavors for a few moments and the sweetness resolves into a cornucopia of warm spices, especially allspice, clove and anise, a bit of new black leather, a whiff of smoke and rich Santa Rosa plum.

At the table, it is a good idea to let the high alcohol guide you because if you mitigate it a bit, matches will soar. One way to do this is to either choose foods with sweet elements or include a subtle sweetness in the dish. Pork chops with a fruit sauce, seared duck breast with dried cherries and pasta with summer tomatoes, butter and creme fraiche all achieve this well.

Bacon is an excellent match, too, as is corn, especially creamy polenta. For today's recipe, I've taken inspiration from these ingredients along with late summer tomatoes, combining them all in a luscious BLT tart. The polenta engages the alcohol, turning down the volume on its sweetness, and the bacon encourages the wine's smoky flavors to blossom.

For best results, make the tart in an 8?- or 9-inch tart pan that is 2? inches deep and has a removable bottom.

Polenta BLT Tart

Makes 6 servings

—Kosher salt

11/2 cups coarse-ground polenta

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