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Seasonal Pantry: Time of year makes for fine cooking

Late summer and early fall in Sonoma County: What a great time to cook. We still have delicious summer tomatoes, all manner of peppers and chiles, crisp cucumbers and beans, extraordinary melons and fresh wild Pacific King Salmon but, as nights turn chilly and there's a morning blanket of fog, fall crops intersect with summer's bounty.

A few days ago, I asked friends and colleagues what they were enjoying right now, during the last few days of fluctuating temperatures when highs inched into three digits and then suddenly dropped enough that we were reaching for sweaters and hoodies. Answers ranged from all manner of salads fresh from the garden, BLTs, gazpacho, grilled cheese sandwiches with tomato soup, watermelon and chilled yogurt-cucumber soup to sliced apples with cheese, baked beans, chard with bacon and garlic, grilled lobster and corn, chili, fiery Italian beef sandwiches, polenta, tarte tatin and cold grapes with chardonnay.

My two favorites came from local photographer George Rose, who is enjoying salty potato chips with sparkling wine, and Angelo Ibleto, who is entertaining himself with commercial chocolate chip cookies topped with a spoonful of his marinara sauce. Neither, of course, involve actual cooking but both evoke a smile.

These simple recipes will evoke smiles, too. If we have another heat wave, do most of the cooking in the morning, when it's cool, and then assemble things at the last minute. Leftovers keep well; just be sure to warm to room temperature before serving.

If you do not eat pasta, you can replace it with barley, farro, quinoa, a small bean such as flageolet or lentils and still have a delicious fall dish.

<strong>Fall Pasta with Rosamarina Pasta, Corn, Haricots Verts & Cherry Tomato Vinaigrette</strong>

<em> Makes 4 to 6 servings</em>

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