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Winemaker credits Bruce Cohn with fostering creativity

Red wine envy?

"Chardonnay is a white variety that wants to be a red," says Tom Montgomery, winemaker of Glen Ellen's B.R. Cohn Winery. "It shines with oak aging and can produce complex, extracted wines with depth and richness."

Montgomery is the man behind our wine-of-the-week winner — the B.R. Cohn Silver Label, 2011 North Coast Chardonnay at $15.

This is a surprisingly good chardonnay for the price. It's rich, with a seamless texture, and toasty, with notes of ripe apple, melon and spice.

Montgomery says vintner Bruce Cohn brings his sensibility to all aspects of winemaking. Cohn is best known for his tenure managing the California rock band the Doobie Brothers.

"Bruce fosters creativity and the love of land and lifestyle that we all have become endeared with," Montgomery says. "He gives me independence with all winemaking, but is very involved in every step from grapegrowing to sales. Winegrowing has been his passion for decades."

Here's the back story of why this wine is such a steal: "Our margin on it is negligible," Montgomery says. "It's not produced to garner a big profit, but rather to give our national sales a value white to accompany our very successful Silver Label Cabernet."

Montgomery studied enology and viticulture at Fresno State University and started working in the Napa Valley under Aaron Mosley, who was vintner Mike

Grgich's assistant at Chateau Montelena when the winery won the historic Paris Tasting of 1976 with its chardonnay.

The winemaker, a 10-year veteran of B.R. Cohn, fell for wine when he was just a teenager.

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