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Seasonal Pantry: The appealing subtlety of shallots

As I walked through the Sebastopol farmers market on a warm Sunday morning, I noticed a basketful of plump shallots.

The crop was just starting, the vendor told me, which means we should have plenty for the fall and winter holidays.

A bit later, I spotted another farmer with shallots, deeply colored red ones. Ahhh, it's going to be a great season.

Shallots are one of the culinary alliums, a cousin of garlic, onions, leeks, scallions, ramps and chives. The shallot is milder than both garlic and onions and can insinuate itself into a wide variety of dishes without overwhelming other ingredients.

It is suave and elegant, with an appealing subtlety. When it is used with other alliums, any dish blossoms with a full spectrum of flavors, which is why I always add shallots of my French onion soup.

Shallots are essential in most vinaigrettes; it is best to let them macerate in the vinegar for a few minutes before adding other ingredients. Roasted, they are luscious and creamy and can be folded into soup, vegetable purees and sauces, or combined with eggs and cream for a lovely savory flan.

Shallots should be stored in a cool, dark and somewhat airy space. Keep them away from potatoes, and do not put them into plastic bags. A small basket, a cloth bag or a wire basket should keep them fresh for several weeks, provided the room is not warm.

For more shallot recipes from the Seasonal Pantry archives, visit this column's companion blog, "Eat This Now," at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.

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