Berger: Port first, then Champagne?

Two of the world's greatest wines, Champagne and Port, are both blessed with some of the greatest wine stories and have some of the industry's most wonderful traditions. And each has embedded within it a language that isn't shared by the rest of the wine world.

Oddly, they represent products that typically are not served with the meal. Most of the time, one is served before a meal, one is served after - although this could be changing.

Champagne's mystical properties revolve around how the winery gets bubbles into the bottle. Often it's viewed as a trick, but actually, it's not that hard to understand.

In the classic French method called m?hode champenoise, the wine is transferred to the bottles in which the wine will be sold. At that point, a bit of yeast and a dollop of additional sugar are added to each bottle, and then bottles are sealed with crown caps.

The second fermentation that ensues creates carbon dioxide and a bit more alcohol, but since the carbon dioxide cannot escape, it goes into solution.

The bottles are then placed on their sides - en tirage - to allow the second fermentation to develop a yeasty character in the wine. This can take as few as 6-8 months, or as long as a decade.

After the wine has gotten its requisite aging, the winery riddles the inverted bottles, progressively turning and shaking the sediment into the neck of the bottles, and then performs a d?orgement to remove the sediment of the second fermentation.

Then the winemaker adds a dose of sugar to each bottle, which is then sealed with a cork.

The special argot used to make bubbly parallels that of the language of Port, the after-dinner wine that's so special in its own right. Port's unique language is from Portugal, and thus is even less well known in the United States.

After the grapes are harvested in the fall, they are traditionally placed in a lagar, a large square vat into which step hardy men who stomp the grapes until its juice may be fermented.

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