Mostly clear

Edmeades winemaker plays to zin's strength

Ben Salazar fell in love with wine — a freefall, really — in the early 2000s when he was a 20-something bartender at the Rutherford Grill in Napa Valley.

"I had many conversations about wine with winemakers and grape growers who stopped in for dinner or a post-harvest beer," he said.

Salazar, 36, is the winemaker behind our wine-of-the-week winner — the Edmeades, 2011 Mendocino County Zinfandel, a great value for the $20 price tag.

The zinfandel is ripe, but not over the top, and it's briary, with an undercurrent of cracked black pepper. But what makes it distinct is its layered concentration of fruit flavors — blackberry, black cherry, plum and a hint of rhubarb.

"Zinfandel's strength is its generous fruit profile," Salazar said. "We play to that strength and make wines with wonderful fruit expression, using oak to compliment that fruit character, not compete with it."

Salazar said producing a wine with pitch-perfect fruit is all about pinpointing the pick.

"The decision when to pick is always what I fret over the most," he said. "The crystal ball is always a little foggy because the maturity and ripeness of the fruit can vary significantly in a vineyard."

This time of year, cool-weather reds like zinfandel draw our attention, Salazar said.

"Fall is when my wine preferences turn decidedly red," he said. "Zinfandel can transition well as you move from simpler, grilled summer fare to fall dishes that are richer, like whole roasted chicken or braised pork loin."

Salazar began as an enologist for Edmeades in 2008, and took on the winemaking responsibilities in 2012. The Edmeades tasting room is in Philo at 5500 Hwy. 128.

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