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When the pork chop hit the table, I could hardly believe my eyes.

I didn't have my pocket scales with me, but a good guess would be at least 24 ounces of pure pork — just a little fat, no gristle, no bone, and meat so flavorful and tender that it set a new personal standard for what a great pork chop should be.

Wishbone, the new Petaluma restaurant that serves this behemoth, calls it the "Pork Chop of Awe and Wonder" ($25 ****), and that's an accurate description. To accentuate the tenderness, chef Miriam Donaldson brines the center-cut chop, then roasts it until it develops a savory brown crust and plumps to a good 2inches thick through the middle.

She is setting up local farms and suppliers, but this chop comes from Niman Ranch, whose headquarters are in the Bay Area but who contracts with more than 700 farms around the country that have agreed to Niman Ranch protocols.

These strict guidelines ensure the animals are raised sustainably, never fed routine antibiotics or hormones, come from parents with high-quality pedigrees, and are always treated humanely and with compassion.

Humane treatment is vital to the best-quality meat. Studies have shown that the meat from hogs raised in distressing conditions is weak and watery, with a substandard flavor.

The chop was topped with slices of pear that had been marinated in bourbon, and it sat on a bed of excellent mashed potatoes in a moat of luscious pork jus.

If the names of Miriam Donaldson or her partner Josh Norwitt sound familiar, you may have encountered them at Humble Pie, their former restaurant in Penngrove that earned them a cult following for their commitment to the highest-quality local and organic ingredients prepared in a rustic American style showcasing the true flavors and textures of the produce.

They are keeping to that philosophy at Wishbone, in the space that was the Three Cooks luncheonette.

As at Humble Pie, the restaurant is funky. The sound system is a Crosley "Cruiser Turntable," retro-looking but armed with up-to-date electronics, and a stack of vinyl LPs to play on it.

One plate-glass window in the dining room provides a view across Magnolia Avenue to a magnificent grain mill that looks like a Charles Sheeler painting. Another looks east to Sonoma Mountain in the distance.

The wine list is just 13 bottles, but they are an eclectic mix of well-chosen wines from Europe and a smattering from around here.

Eight wines by the glass include a lovely 2012 Beaujolais Villages.

The service is American-casual-friendly — nothing snooty but glad to be of help.

Besides that pork chop, entrees include Chicken Jalape? Pie, Delicata Panzanella, Cheese 'n' Mushroom Flat Pie, and Hemingway Trout — not a lot of entrees, but there is a nice group of smaller starters to choose from.

For instance, Bread and Butters ($5 ** 1/2) is a delightful little plate that includes a house-made loaf of milk-and-honey bread served with a citrus butter, an herb butter and a tapenade of ground olives.

There's a Daily Green Salad ($8 **), whose ingredients are determined by the chef. On a recent night, rather limp greens were enlivened with slices of Fuyu persimmons (the kind that can be eaten when still relatively firm), candied walnuts and blue cheese crumbles.

A Buckwheat Crepe Pizzetta ($9 ***) pays homage to Brittany with its topping of gravlox, preserved lemon and cr?e fraiche. An appetizer called Salt and Sweet ($8 **) isn't cooked, but rather assembled. It wraps slices of Fuyu persimmons and Granny Smith apples with prosciutto, and pairs them with blackberries and plump Concord grapes.

For dessert, there was Pink Lady Apple Pie ($5 ***), a well-made treat with a flaky crust and baked apple slices properly dusted with cinnamon and sugar and cooked until the sugar liquefied and browned. It was topped with whipped cream and decorated with an orange nasturtium blossom.

To sum up: It's nice to have the Humble Pie people back, turning out their honest and healthful Sonoma County staples.

(Jeff Cox writes a weekly restaurant review column for the Sonoma Living section. You can reach him at jeffcox@sonic.net.)

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