From fish to tomatoes, agricultural diversity, farms and fertile microclimates abound

Driving north, the transition from Sonoma to Mendocino County is at first imperceptible, with nothing more than small highway signs to signal the change. Yet before long, a palpable sense of place takes hold as the mind absorbs the vastness of Mendocino County.

Mendocino County has a wild, rustic feel, a quality of peace, of quiet and, after the sun sets, of real darkness, far from the light pollution of more densely populated areas. On clear nights ? and there are plenty, especially above the fog line and in the inland areas ? the sky is spectacular.

Like Sonoma County, Mendocino County holds within its embrace ancient redwood forests, fertile valleys, distinct growing regions, countless microclimates and a long stretch ? 129 miles ? of scenic coastline.?There is plenty of open space and undeveloped land, and agriculture thrives.

There are large and small ranches and farms, and a robust organic movement in both viticulture and agriculture. Many local products bear a ?Mendocino Renegades? label, which indicates farming practices that surpass those required for federal organic certification. In 2004, Mendocino County voters approved Measure H, which bans GMO (genetically modified organisms) crops.

The first vineyards were planted here in the 19th century. Today, there are more than 300 vineyards and nearly 100 wineries. More than a hundred wineries, including many in Sonoma County, carry a Mendocino County designation, indicating the source of the grapes, on their labels.

When it comes to agriculture, Mendocino County?s diversity rivals that of any region of California, with everything from all manner of greens, root crops, melons, tomatoes, peppers, apples, pears, peaches and strawberries to honey, organic eggs, pastured chickens, grass-fed beef and, perhaps surprisingly, organic wheat. There are several olive orchards, two olive mills and, in Fort Bragg, a thriving fishing industry. A sole cheese enterprise, Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese, is based in Willits.

Feisty independence

?I?m tired of losing chickens,? says Donna Bishop of Bishop Ranch, located northeast of Gualala at an elevation of about 800 feet.

Last year, a bear took nearly a dozen of her laying hens on a single night; a neighbor lost a goat the same night. Bobcats, mountain lions and neighbors? dogs help themselves to the chickens, and crows steal eggs.?

After nearly 40 years of farming here, Bishop plans to install an electric fence this spring, which will keep out the dogs and the bobcats but not the mountain lions, the bears or those wily crows.?

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