Papapietro Perry, 2006 Elsbree Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Zinfandel, $37. ****

An earthy zin with bright fruit and great spice. Notes of black cherry, dried cherry and white pepper. A hint tart, but it works.

Kendall-Jackson, 2006 Vintners Reserve North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, $20. ***?

A cab with good structure. Aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, herbs and spice. Long finish.

Gallo, 2006 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, $15. ***?

Aromas and flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and cherry, as well as mineral and spice. A good value for the price.