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Dan Berger: Wrong temperature can spoil wine's taste

The strange thing is that we all should have known better, but the day was so nice and the people so enjoyable that no one really complained.

It was an event staged by a winery for a small group of media people, all of whom have been in the wine writing biz for decades, and the day was so lovely that it was decided we should sit on a patio under a cover to protect us from the sun.

And it was, at first, a great idea. The Sonoma morning had been relatively cool, and by noon, when we gathered for an aperitif, the temperature outside was still moderate.

But an hour passed before we actually sat down, and then the first wines were chilled whites, which was fine. The day was growing warmer, and we were, after all, under a cover of sorts that shielded us from direct sunlight.

By the time the main-course wines showed up, three terrific pinot noirs, the temperature on the patio had reached about 90 degrees, and even though the wines had been kept cool until they were served, they quickly reached about 80 degrees.

And this ruined the wines.

All this reminded me that for the most part, wines in the United States are usually served at the wrong temperature.

Start with reds. The old phrase about them being served at "room temperature" is absurd. Most rooms are around 70 degrees. Most reds taste pretty terrible at that temperature. Most reds are best at 60 degrees or even a bit lower.

The reason is that, especially with the way today's red wines are being made, most are soft and don't have much acidity — at least, not as much as they need to work with food when they are warm. Keeping reds cool at least allows them to retain some sort of balance with the foods with which they are to be paired.

Far too many restaurants in the United States still follow the old "red wine at room temp" rule, and this has led to a number of awkward moments, such as when I ask for an ice bucket for a red wine that was served at about 80 degrees.


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