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Go away.

No, this is not a demand for someone to depart. In this case it refers to the sale of wines that have not sold.

Every winery faces this situation at one time or another: a number of cases of wine that have not sold. In some cases, there is nothing wrong with the wine — it merely hasn't sold in a prescribed period of time, for various reasons.

At some point the winery or wholesaler has to decide how to make the wine "go away," in the parlance of the trade.

This phrase means the winery would like to sell the wine for almost any price, because it's taking up valuable floor space, may cost tax dollars, and is simply not getting any better.

But making wine disappear is more complicated than it appears. The winery can't afford to deeply discount a wine of which it has succeeding vintages for at least two reasons:

- The deeply discounted price casts a negative image on the winery, implying that the wine never was worth the original price for which it was sold.

- The following vintage will be seen as overpriced by comparison.

So the best way to make wine go away without such complications often means a bit of subterfuge. If a wine was bottled with a blank (unbranded) cork, it's possible to remove the labels and foils, re-label and re-foil the bottle and sell the wine to retailers such as independent grocery chains. Such wine usually has a name unconnected to the producer.

If a wine is worth a lot of money, its label is one reason it will command a top price, and selling it at a lower-than-suggested price becomes a trick, notably because the brand owner rarely wants to see such wines widely advertised as being discounted.

One old trick was to sell the wine in remote locations where it would sell without fanfare. I once knew of two such "dumping grounds" — stores in two remote Rocky Mountain cities. The advent of the Internet has changed that tactic.

Another trick was to sell the wine to airlines, where it would be poured by the glass on international flights without much attention.

A key to this is not to reveal the price readily. Recently the fine wine shop K&L in San Francisco offered a wide range of rare vintage Ports from Portugal for sale at prices that clearly were heavily discounted from their original prices.

How deep were the discounts? In its contact with those on its "Insider's Advantage" email list, the sale price was listed as "Hidden;" to find out what the price was, you had to log onto the K&L website.

The reason? The houses in question would have been unhappy seeing their $500 wines selling for $280 a bottle.

Numerous other tactics have been used to make wines go away. In some cases, it entails offering visitors to the winery's tasting room a deep discount on a wine only at the winery. But one clever winery did the opposite.

Three decades ago, this winery earned gold medals for its 1981 and 1982 Cabernets. The former sold well until the latter won its gold medal. At that point, sales of the 1981 (a better wine) stopped cold; the '82 was selling like wildfire.

Read all of the PD's fire coverage here

Instead of discounting the 1981, the winery owner put gold stickers on the bottles that said "Reserve," increased the price of the wine by $2 a bottle, and it soon sold out.

Wine of the Week: 2011 Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($12) — I first tasted this wine when it came out months ago, and didn't think it was up to past vintages. Months later, it has developed handsomely, with pink grapefruit, lime, kiwi fruit and a load of savory flavors like tarragon, anise and white peach. Dry but not austere, it's best with spicy Asian food.

Dan Berger (winenut@gmail.com) lives in Sonoma County, where he publishes Vintage Experiences, a weekly newsletter on wine.

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