Wine, mescal and mole

  • Pumpkin bread with slow cooked pork, mole de Oaxaca, toasted pumpkin seeds and plaintains served with mezcal, top left, served in a decorated gourd at Agave Mexican Restaurant and Tequila Bar in Healdsburg, Wednesday, October 10, 2012.

    (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)

Octavio Diaz was only 13 when he came to Rohnert Park from Oaxaca to live with his aunt and uncle and get an education. He graduated from Rancho Cotate High School and moved on to study hospitality in college before working as the food and beverage director at the Sheraton Hotel in Petaluma for many years.

Through it all he never forgot his mother and grandmother's cooking and their dedication to Oaxacan traditions, especially making mole and enjoying rustic regional mescal.

When his parents finally moved to Sonoma County for good six years ago, Diaz knew it was time to open his own restaurant and highlight his regional and familial traditions. He launched Agave Mexican Restaurant in Healdsburg in 2010.

"As I learned more about food and wine, I saw that our food had been misrepresented," Diaz said. "A lot of people think rice and beans and burritos and tacos is Mexican food, but with mole we have the opportunity to showcase Mexican cuisine the way our moms and grandmas make it."

Mole is a sauce that can be traced back to the Aztecs, made with Mexican chocolate, chiles, peppers, tomatoes, herbs and spices, andmany other variables, including raisins, peanuts and bananas, all cooked with lard or oil into a paste and served with a range of meats, from chicken to rabbit.

There are a million variations on the basic concept, but seven generally accepted standard moles: Mole negro (the most common); mole verde; mole colorado, a red sauce that's often brothy; mole amarillo, made much like a soup; mole chichilo, made from burnt peppers; pipian, made from pumpkin seeds and stock; and manchamantel, which has pureed banana, pineapple, cinnamon and ancho chiles.

Diaz has plans to sell his moles commercially at Casa del Mole, the Mexican grocery store he owns, also in Healdsburg.

It can be difficult finding drinks that go with authentic Mexican food. Having spent years buying wine for the Sheraton, Diaz got to know and love many Sonoma County wines and at Agave pays close attention to pairing.

"I select wines that have complexity," Diaz said. "Certain merlots remind me of my mom's mole. There's tobacco, there's chocolate, there's cinnamon."

He also likes earthy Dry Creek Valley zinfandels with his mole dishes, chenin blanc with seafood like tequila prawns and sauvignon blanc with ceviche or Mary's Chicken Mole.

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