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Siduri 2011 Sonoma County offers smooth tannins, texture

Siduri Wines crafts pinot noir with that extraordinary silk-on-satin texture that lovers of the varietal, myself among them, find so compelling. This is as true of our Wine of the Week, Siduri 2011 Sonoma County Pinot Noir ($22), as any I've tasted. Tannins are long and smooth, with nary a hint of roughness. Yet there is texture, too, a plushness that emerges on the wine's almost melodic finish.

Delicate flavors emerge from this engaging foundation like ephemeral stars rising in the night sky. There are delicate flashes of earth and fruit that deliver on the palate promises made in the wine's evocative bouquet, which is full of that ethereal quality I like to call the pinot thing.

The wine is pure sensual pleasure and, at $22, pretty much guilt-free.

When it comes to pairing, the wine's embrace is broad and deep. It will flatter a huge array of foods, from blue cheeses, roasted root vegetables, all manner of mushrooms and wild rice, to salmon, mussels, chicken (dark meat), duck, lamb, pork and certain cuts of beef, like tenderloin and filet mignon. A creamy beet risotto, shrimp scampi, roast turkey, meatloaf, macaroni and cheese and grilled eggplant all welcome this wine alongside. When I narrow it down to the very best companions, I'm left with mushrooms, duck breast and winter squash-bacon gratin.

For today's recipe, I've chosen a delicious mushroom strudel that can either take center stage or be a supporting player. It's an ideal holiday option for vegetarians and is excellent with roast chicken. I like to serve it with a tangy green salad alongside, something simple, like young parsley leaves and capers tossed with a light vinaigrette.

Maitake Mushroom Strudel

Makes 6 to 8servings

Dough:

? cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

? cup old-fashioned cream cheese, at room temperature


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