Farewell, foie gras

  • Seared Sonoma Foie Gras with smoked blueberry jam, maple, banyuls and pain perdu at Petite Syrah.

As California gets ready to bid farewell to foie gras on July 1, customers who love the fatty foodstuff — the liver of a duck or goose that has been over-fed — are snapping it up at a record pace.

"Our demand for foie gras has rapidly increased as the end draws near," said Dustin Valette, chef de cuisine at Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. "We've seen a 300 percent increase in our foie gras sales."

When California Health and Safety Code 25980-25984 goes into effect July 1, California will be the first and only state in the nation to ban the sale of foie gras. The law will criminalize the sale of any product that is the result of force-feeding and carry a fine of up to $1,000 a day, enforceable by a humane society, animal control or police officer.

More than 100 chefs in the state have formed a coalition against the ban, and the dispute between animal-rights advocates who view its creation as animal cruelty and chefs who see it as a sensuous, essential food delicacy remains deeply polarized.

Of a handful of Wine Country chefs interviewed who serve foie gras on a regular basis, all expressed sadness and frustration over a law they say appears frivolous, at best, and an infringement of personal rights, at worst.

"Your freedom to swing your fist ends at my nose," said Josh Silvers, who has served foie gras at Santa Rosa's Petite Syrah since it opened 13 years ago. "I don't go to a vegetarian restaurant and make them cook bacon."

Silvers was among several Wine Country chefs serving special "Farewell to Foie" dinners this spring, despite threat of protests from animal-rights activists.

"It's a delicious delicacy that people have been eating for thousands of years," he said. "It's a special-occasion thing."

Others regard the ban against force-feeding as a step in the right direction.

"It's cruel, and I think there's enough cruelty in the world," said Jeff Stanford, proprietor of the Stanford Inn by the Sea and its all-vegan Raven's Restaurant in Mendocino. "By changing your habits, and what you put in your mouth, you can make a huge impact."

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