Berger: Microbrews to try from Sonoma County and beyond

I love beer for all of the different incarnations that have come down the road in the last several years, including all the different styles we see coming out of tiny microbreweries in remote locations.

The world’s largest beer companies have seen the work of these artisans and many have attempted to replicate them, most without much success.

Huge companies often advertise such projects to hide their real size, but only real artisans can offer the tiny batch, distinctive brews that are worth drinking.

It’s easy to see the significant rise of true artisan breweries by going into a fine wine shop that also carries beer. Even large supermarkets now carry a broad selection of microbrews that have distinctive characteristics, many of which are not exactly mainstream.

Some beers and ales from the artisan companies are made with exotic hops or fruits and other flavorings, so read labels carefully.

We will soon see many holiday ales that are made only for Christmas and New Year’s celebrations. These can be, and often are, made with herbs and spices, some from old Sumerian recipes.

Keep in mind that although light beer has its place in the market, mosts microbrews are intended to go with good foods and to be savored as you would a fine wine, reflecting on nuances of flavor. As such, they probably will be more expensive than light beers.

Here are several microbrews tasted a week ago by a group of nine, listed in the order we tasted them. They represent just a tiny view of what is happening in the beer world today.

Anderson Valley Brewing, Hopland, “Gose” Briney Melon, Watermelon Ale: This is a light sour brew with a soft finish, generally available only at the tasting room. It has a wheat aroma, light hops and only 4.2 percent alcohol. Somewhat delicate and very refreshing. Because of its sour finish, probably best with sausages.

Tahoe Mountain Brewing, Truckee, “Provision,” a saison beer: A multigrain brew with a slightly rustic aroma, malty with a kind of bread dough, wild yeast character. Faintly cloudy to indicate no filtration; 6.2 percent alcohol.

Moreland Brewing, England, “Hen’s Tooth,” bottle conditioned: The yeasty, caramel-y, butterscotch aroma is hoppy and malty, with a slightly sweet entry and faintly bitter aftertaste. 6.5 percent alcohol.

Sudwerk Brewing, Davis, “Rye of the Lager:” This rather strong beer (7 percent alcohol) is an imperial lager that has an almost stoutlike aroma with a slightly bitter finish, but its sweet entry makes it a lovely sipping beer that calls for soft cheeses. We had it with a slightly runny brie.

Stone Brewing, San Diego, “Belgique IPA,” Belgian Twist: This excellent brewing company with wide distribution makes many fascinating beers and ales. This IPA is a little less hoppy than others. It has a malty aroma with a trace of banana and a slight taste of cream soda. 6.9 percent alcohol and one of the best-liked products we tasted.

Russian River Brewing, Santa Rosa, “Pliny the Elder:” Bottled Aug. 23, stored at 40 degrees since being bought on Sept. 14: This most distinctive and classic brew has an aroma of malt and hops, with an almost floral aroma and a traditional assertive roast coffee note. Best with food, it was one of the strongest brews we tasted (8 percent alcohol), and is best consumed as young as possible. Tasting room only. Bottles can be purchased there to take home. Refrigerate until consuming.

Russian River Brewing, Santa Rosa, “Blind Pig:” Bottled Aug. 25, stored at 40 degrees since being bought on Sept. 14: Malty IPA spice, but less malt than the prior brew. Smooth, slight citrusy notes, extremely clean and complete. We had a wedge of St. George Portuguese cheese from Joe Matos Cheese Co., which was perfect with the brew (6.25 percent alcohol.) Blind Pig was one taster’s choice as Russian River Brewing’s most interesting product. (I prefer Damnation.) Tasting room only. Bottles can be purchased to take home.

Barrel Bros., Fair Oaks, “Dark Sarcasm” Porter: Smells and tastes like chocolate sauce! Best with extremely assertive, aromatic cheeses; 7 percent alcohol.

Stone Brewing, San Diego, “Citricado IPA:” The use of some exotic hops and avocado flower honey gives this quite citrusy IPA a fascinating aromatic and lively taste. But its 9 percent alcohol seems a bit daunting.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, where he publishes “Vintage Experiences,” a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com.