Wine of the week: Scouting for any surprises in The Press Democrat's 10-Year Cabernet Sauvignon Retrospective

Wine writer Peg Melnik had a blind tasting this week of

35 10-year-old cabernet sauvignons and Bordeaux red blends and she

found a surprise. While heavy hitters like Spottswoode, Shafer and

Insignia out-ranked Pedroncelli, the modest player showed it can

play with the big boys, snagging a score of 4 stars. The cab was a

mere $15 upon release and today it's priced at $30.

TOP PICK

Pedroncelli 2001 Three Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Cabernet

Sauvignon, 13.8 percent alcohol, ($30).****

A tasty cab with bright, youthful fruit and layered

flavors. Notes of cherry, cedar and white pepper. Seamless texture.

Juicy.

Others worth noting:

Beringer, 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.2 percent.****

1/2

A complex, layered cab with the fruit spot on. Aromas and flavors

of black raspberry, cherry, rosemary and spice. Has vitality.

Sleek. Elegant.

Goldschmidt, 2001 Alexander Valley Single Vineyard Selection

Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent.**** 1/2

A big-boy cab, complex and full-bodied. Earthy, smoky, with aromas

and flavors of blackberry, black currant, mineral and spice.

Youthful fruit. Brooding.

Insignia, 2001 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Red Wine, 13.9.**** 1/2

A generous blend with rich flavors. Notes of blackberry, mocha and

cedar. Vibrant fruit. Silky texture. Supple.

Pride Mountain Vineyards, 2001 Napa Valley Reserve Claret, 14.4

percent.**** 1/2

A fleshy cab with a good concentration of vibrant fruit. Earthy,

with notes of cherry, mocha and toast. Vibrant fruit. Rich.

Ramey, 2001 Diamond Mountain District Napa Valley Cabernet

Sauvignon, 14.9 percent.**** 1/2

A rich, focused cab with an undercurrent of spice. Full-bodied with

bright fruit and a ripe finish. Layered and complex.

Shafer, 2001 Stags Leap District Hillside Select Cabernet

Sauvignon, 14.9 percent.**** 1/2

A full-bodied cab with bright, rich cherry fruit. Earthy, with

notes of mineral and cinnamon. Lingering finish.

Spottswoode 2001, Spottswood Estate Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet

Sauvignon, 14.1 percent.**** 1/2

A juicy cab with earthy flavors. Notes of black raspberry, bacon

and smoke. Lively fruit. Juicy.

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Other wines tasted and rated ****

Burgess Cellars, 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14. 3

percent; Chateau Souverain, 2001 Stuhlmuller Vineyard, Alexander

Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent; Chateau St. Jean, 2001

Cinq Cepages, Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.4 percent,

Duckhorn, 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent; Dunn

Vineyards, 2001 Howell Mountain, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,,

13.6 percent; Forefathers, 2001 Alexander Valley Cabernet

Sauvignon, 14.4 percent; Jordan, 2001 Sonoma County Cabernet

Sauvignon, 13.5 percent; Mount Veeder Winery, 2001 Napa Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 14.1 percent; Ramey, 2001 Jericho

Canyon Vineyard, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.7 percent:

Simi, 2001Alexander Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.1 percent.

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Other wines tasted and rated *** 1/2

Hess Collection, 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent;

Hush, 2001 North Field Select Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.9

percent; Kenwood, 2001 Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma Valley Cabernet

Sauvignon, 13.7 percent; Robert Mondavi Winery, 2001 Napa Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 14.5 percent; Pride Mountain Vineyards,

2001 Reserve Cabernet Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.7 percent;

Silver Oak, 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.6 percent; Von

Strasser, 2001 Diamond Mountain Estate Vineyards Napa Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.2.