Our Wine of the Week, Migration 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($32), and other wines like it are part of a summer tradition, which I realized as I perused this column’s archives. As I sipped the wine, exploring its plush texture and feeling its fruit unfold — first white peaches and nectarines and then apricots — I found myself thinking of summer’s sweet corn and the delicious chowders made with it. So I glanced back at previous chardonnay pairings and there was all the evidence, corn chowder, corn custard, corn risotto, corn and salmon soup, pear and corn stuffing.
Little is better with a big buttery chardonnay in the summer than corn.
The simplest way to savor the combination is with roasted corn on the cob slathered with good butter and seasoned with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Gild the lily by adding crumbled cheese or bacon.
This regal chardonnay is also excellent with lobster, so if you’re planning a lobster feed this summer, you’ll want it around. Seared scallops are a great match, too.
For today’s recipe, tradition continues, with another yummy chowder.
Corn and Potato Chowder
Serves 3 to 4
3 to 4 bacon slices, in small dice
1 small yellow onion, in small dice
1 carrot, peeled and minced