Late summer picnic picks

As the final wave of family vacations recedes into the distance and the kids get ready to go back to school, the denizens of Wine Country brace for the annual 'crush' of tourism rooted in the festive grape harvest tradition.

Whether you want to get in on the action yourself or give out-of-town guests a taste of the harvest, chances are you will plan a picnic that needs to be prepped and packed so it can be appreciated in the warm, slanting light of late summer.

'August is the start of crush season,' said Summer Sebastiani, who recently opened Summer's Market & Deli in Healdsburg. 'We get the more sophisticated visitors, the people who are here to appreciate the wine and food.'

A graduate of the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, Sebastiani spent the past 15 years cooking in Calistoga, first at Brannan's Grill and then at All Seasons Bistro, where she worked her way up from pastry chef to executive chef.

Along with her husband, Todd Fernandez, the North Coast native bought the former Powell Avenue Market last summer, then spent nine months gutting and revamping it into a cheerful deli where she churns out breakfast pastries and sandwiches, spreads and salads, comfort food to go and homemade ice creams.

'Basically, everything but the bread and the pasta sheets are made by me,' she said. 'I wanted some of my training to be appreciated by people who don't get to go to a nice restaurant.'

The market, which first opened in 1947 but had been closed for the past two years, is conveniently located on the way to Russian River beaches such as Del Rio and not far from the storied wineries of the Dry Creek, Alexander and Russian River valleys.

The market/deli is the perfect pit stop for folks looking for sustenance on their way to do some serious wine tasting during the harvest season.

'Fall is my favorite time of year,' said Sebastiani, a distant relative of the famed Sebastiani wine family. 'Lake Sonoma is pretty nice for picnicking, and the Russian River. We like to take our kayaks down the river and picnic halfway through.'

To fill the wine lovers' picnic baskets, Sebastiani offers all kinds of portable goodies, from deli sandwiches and salads to easy-to-eat desserts like cheesecake and lemon tarts.

The salads range from a Jalapeño Potato Salad and a Chicken Caesar to a classic Cucumber Salad and a Blue Cheese BLT Wedge Salad, made with iceberg lettuce, crispy bacon and blue cheese dressing.

As a main course, she suggests ordering a simple charcuterie plate, featuring roasted garlic and house-made crostini, salumi and prosciutto, smoked and creamy cheeses.

For vegetarians, she makes her own spreads, such as hummus, which can be enjoyed with items like crackers, olives and artichoke hearts.

'Right now, I'm looking for an inexpensive, disposable picnic vessel,' she said. She carries more expensive baskets as well, which customers can keep around for the next picnic.

'You can also give a picnic basket as a gift, and fill it with jarred, non-perishable items.'

The pastry chef makes her own fresh fruit salad every day as well as a wide range of luscious tarts made from fruit shared by her many friends in the neighborhood.

'Right now, people are bringing in their backyard peaches,' she said.

The market carries a wide range of organic iced teas and fresh juices, a sprinkling of local wines and a wide range of local brews, including Bear Republic. The market also carries Sonoma Cider, which makes an organic pear and apple cider perfect for picnics.

If you're planning a picnic, Sebastiani suggests bringing a cooler with ice packs or frozen water bottles, which can be used for hydration after they melt. And that's important when you're drinking wine on a hot day.

'A lot of the wineries are picnic-friendly,' she said. 'If you picnic there, buy a bottle of wine. That's always tactful.'

Sebastiani, who grew up on the coast at Annapolis, saved for about 10 years to buy her own place with her husband, who has his own business selling wine barrels.

'We've always been looking for a little deli,' said Sebastiani. 'The ham and the turkey we carry are all-natural, no-nitrate meats. I wanted people to eat a good sandwich, and I wanted it to be affordable.'

As the finishing touch, Sebastiani has ordered a large, custom picnic table for the shady side of the market, where her customers can enjoy an alfresco picnic right on the premises.

'When I was a kid, Healdsburg was a one-horse town,' she said. 'Now it's a destination.'

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The following recipes are from Summer Sebastiani of Summer's Market in Healdsburg.

Blue Cheese BLT Wedge Salad

Makes 4 servings

For salad:4 ounces bacon strips, cut into 1-inch pieces1 small head iceberg lettuce1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in halfFor dressing:1 cup mayonnaise1 cup crumbled blue cheese½ cup Half & Half½ teaspoon celery seed½ teaspoon garlic powder¼ cup white onion, finely chopped— Half of lemon, juiced

For salad: Fry bacon pieces on medium heat until crispy, about 5 minutes.

Slice cherry tomatoes in half, and lettuce into quarters.

For dressing: Blend all ingredients together with a whisk and let chill overnight.

To serve: Put wedges of lettuce on salad plates and sprinkle with the bacon and cherry tomatoes. Drizzle the dressing over the top.

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Fresh Peach Tart

Makes 4 small tarts

For tart dough:4 ounces powdered sugar8 ounces butter, unsalted1 teaspoon vanilla12 ounces all-purpose flour— Dash of salt1 eggFor pastry cream:16 ounces whole milk2 ounces sugar1 teaspoon vanilla1 ounce cornstarch2 ounces sugar2 egg yolks1 whole egg2 ounces butterFor topping:4 fresh peaches, pitted and sliced

For dough: In a food processor, blend sugar and flour on low speed until combined. Add egg and vanilla. Mix well, then add the flour slowly until dough forms. Do not overmix. Place dough onto plastic wrap and let chill for four hours. Roll out and form into tart pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes.

For pastry cream: Bring hot milk, first 2 ounces of sugar to a boil. Blend together the cornstarch and second 2 ounces of sugar, then blend in eggs. Pour hot milk over the mixture and stir constantly over low heat until thick. Place butter in small pieces on top of cream. When cream is cool, stir in butter.

To assemble: Place pastry cream inside each tart shell. Top with the fresh peach slices.

Staff writer Diane Peterson can be reached at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com.