Wine of the week: Foppiano Vineyards, 2008 Russian River Valley

When it comes to vineyards, it's location, location, location.

And our wine of the week winner — Foppiano Vineyards, 2008 Russian River Valley — was produced from some great real estate, according to winemaker Natalie West.

"I believe that what sets this pinot apart from others is the simplest answer: the fruit," West said.

"Foppiano Vineyards is in a unique area that has the benefits of the cool Russian River Valley foggy mornings, but is far enough north to benefit from warm afternoons. This leads to a wine that has great ripe fruit aromas, tannins, and flavors, but also maintains great acidity, structure, and balance."

West began at Foppiano in June of 2008, but said the winery and vineyards weren't affected by smoke from the massive wildfires that year. They didn't have do deal with any strategic winemaking to manage smoky flavors.

Hundreds of wildfires were sparked by lightning beginning June 20, 2008 and for three weeks smoke billowed for miles — as far south as San Francisco — as fires ranged out of control in the timberlands of Mendocino County and beyond.

To test the 2008s on the market, the flight included a couple of pinot noirs from Anderson Valley, a region that was affected by smoke, according to several winemakers.

The Breggo showed no signs of smoke, but the Roessler Blue Jay didn't fare as well. (See the notes in the chart.)

West said the whimsy of Mother Nature can be quite a challenge, but that's also the appeal of winemaking, especially during the craze of crush.

"I think what initially drew me to winemaking was the buzz and energy of harvest time," West said.

"There is so much hard work and long hours that everyone bonds to the wine and their co-workers. Everyone takes pride in what they are doing."

West said she's also taken by winemaking because everything is always in flux.

"I love how the industry is dynamic, and every year is a different challenge," West said.

"It keeps me on my toes, and I am never bored. I suppose the same things that are upsides can also be downsides. Long hours, stress, exhaustion. Overall, though, the good far out weighs the bad."

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 479-3880 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.