Wine of the week: Rustic and refined Quivira grenache

Rustic and refined. That’s how Hugh Chappelle describes grenache.

Chappelle is the winemaker behind our wine-of-the-week winner -the Quivira, 2012 Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Grenache at $32.

“Grenache offers an enticing combination of rustic and refined that somehow draws you back for more,” Chappelle said. “When done well, the nose of grenache is incredibly alluring, often leading into a mouth-feel that, while never as suave and velvety as pinot, has an equal appeal.”

The bold red fruit is what makes this a standout - deep cherry and fresh strawberry. It also has firm tannins, with an herbal note and an edgy undercurrent of spice.

“We strive to make a full-flavored, yet impeccably balanced grenache that is both bold in its aroma and flavor but on the palate delivers a balance and elegance that sets the wine apart,” Chappelle said.

What the uninitiated don’t know about grenache, Chappelle said, is that it’s the base of the world’s finest rosé wines, universally acknowledged as the best single grape from which to make rosé. He said that’s why Quivira’s rosé is based on grenache.

Chappelle joined Quivira Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg in 2010. Before that, he was the winemaker at Lynmar Estate in Sebastopol and, prior to that, Flowers Vineyard & Winery in Cazadero.

“Like many, it was that first great, perfectly aged bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that opened my eyes to the charms of this noble variety,” Chappelle explained. “Along the way, amazing bottles from California’s central coast, Spain, and Australia have further cemented my ‘love affair’ with grenache.”

While irresistible, grenache can be stubborn, Chappelle said.

“Grenache is challenging in both the vineyard and winery, with the most challenging part really depending on the vintage,” he said. “In the vineyard, grenache does not like to be directly exposed to the sun and can easily sunburn. Also, getting grenache’s formidable tannins ripe at balanced alcohol potential takes work and being flexible to adapt to the uniqueness of each growing season.”

Chappelle said in the winery, the main challenge is in capturing the perfume that grenache is so prized for with a signature balance on the palate between alcohol, tannin and acid. On the upside, when mastered, grenache is superb, tasty with food or solo, Chappelle said.

“Grenache can give the aromatic enjoyment of a great pinot,” he said, “but then stand up to a much wider range of foods as it is not so easily overpowered.”

Wine of the Week: Scouting for the tastiest red wines

Wine writer Peg Melnik had a blind tasting this week of mixed reds that included zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and grenache. There were some tasty finds in the flight, but our wine-of-the-week winner is the Quivira, 2012 Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Grenache at $32.

TOP PICK

Quivira, 2012 Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County Grenache, 14.7 percent alcohol, $32. ????

The bold red fruit is what makes this a standout - deep cherry and fresh strawberry. It also has firm tannins, with an herbal note and a edgy undercurrent of spice.

Other impressive wines

Sequoia Grove, 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.2 percent, $38. ????

Generous fruit flavors of raspberries and cassis, with a note of clove. Ripe tannins. Balanced. Nice length.

Sebastiani, 2012 Sonoma County Zinfandel, 14.5 percent, $17. ???

1/2 A zesty zin with notes of raspberry, black tea and cracked black pepper. Spicy finish. A terrific value.

Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards, 2012 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent, $20. ????

Full-bodied, with tasty aromas and flavors of cherry, plum and cracked black pepper. Firm tannins. Silky texture. Striking.

Stuhlmuller Vineyards, 2012 Alexander Valley Estate Zinfandel, 14.6 percent, $28. ????

A layered zin with a lot going on. Aromas and flavors of strawberry, plum and black raspberry, with a surprising note of apricot. Bright acidity. Impressive.