Pairing: Curry with viognier

At this time of year, articles and advertisements typically attest to the joys of red wine in the winter months. But it would be a mistake to overlook the suitability of white wines, including our Wine of the Week, Orpheus Wines 2013 Mendocino County Nelson Vineyards Viognier ($20), in cooler, darker weather. Red wines may warm us but white wines mirror the foggy landscape and highlight many of the foods we enjoy now in engaging ways.

This wine is lush and layered, with gorgeous fruit - think white peach, white nectarine, ripe pear and Meyer lemon - and enough minerality to keep it refreshing. Citrus blossoms in the aroma, along with a sweetness reminiscent of popovers or brioche fresh out of the oven, announcing what is about to unfold on the palate.

Southeast Asian curries, Indian curries and Moroccan tagines, provided they are not too hot, are great matches, as the abundant fruit in the wine pairs beautifully with fragrant and sweet spices. Coconut is an especially good match. Simple roasted chicken basted with apple cider as it cooks, sweet potatoes, winter squash, white-fleshed fish and scallops are all flattered by this wine.

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For today’s recipe, I’ve chosen my version of a dish I enjoyed in Malaysia during the opening reception for the new Kuala Lumpur airport, where waiters passed platters full of sweet yellow watermelon and this wonderful curry, among other traditional foods.

Two Potato Curry

Serves 3 to 4

2 medium potatoes, such as German Butterball or Yellow Finn, peeled

1 large or 2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled

3 to 4 tablespoons clarified butter, warm

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

1 small yellow onion, cut into small dice

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons mild to medium curry powder

2 teaspoons turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

1 14-ounce can coconut milk

1 pound young spinach leaves

- Chutney of choice

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cut the potatoes and sweet potatoes into large julienne, set on a baking sheet. Drizzle with a tablespoon of clarified butter, turning the tubers in the butter to coat them evenly. Add a bit more butter, if needed. Season lightly with salt and pepper, set on the middle rack of the oven and cook until almost but not quite tender.

Meanwhile, put the remaining butter into a deep sauté pan (an All Clad saucier is ideal) set over medium-low heat. When the butter is melted, add the onion and sauté until very soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Do not let it brown. Add the garlic, sauté 2 minutes more and stir in the curry powder, turmeric, cumin and cinnamon. Stir and cook for about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, add the ginger and coconut milk, stir and remove from the heat.

When the potatoes are almost tender, carefully transfer them to the sauce and simmer very gently until completely tender.

Taste and correct for salt and pepper as needed.

Working quickly, rinse the spinach in water and shake off some but not all of it. Put the spinach in a wok or similar pan set over high heat and cook, turning with tongs, until the spinach just wilts, about 90 seconds. Transfer to individual soup plates or a serving platter.

Spoon the curry on top of the spinach and serve immediately, with the chutney alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 17 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings.” You’ll find her blog, “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com. Email Jordan at michele@saladdresser.com