Pairing: Matching richness with richness

Our Wine of the Week, Renwood 2012 Amador County Premier Old Vine Zinfandel ($20), will be the life of any party. It's a show-off, with enormous ripe, juicy, jammy fruit flavors. Cocoa, milk chocolate, vanilla, black pepper and oodles of spice all merge into a rich velvet texture with a powerful finish, with lots of oak and tannins that are relatively smooth. It's not for everyone, but anyone who loves a powerhouse wine will fall madly in love.

At the table, match richness with richness. A rare burger with blue cheese and bacon is a match made in heaven. Braised short ribs, beef stew, venison stew and prime rib are all good partners, too. Vegetarians will want to think about slow-roasted root vegetables or a luscious vegetarian lasagna.

Today, I'm offering an ambitious but frankly awesome match. Be sure to read the recipe all the way through so you are sure to have all ingredients and equipment at hand. This meatloaf can be made with any ground meat and may be baked; to do so, pack it into a loaf pan and cook in a 325-degree oven for about 1 hour and cook the vegetables on top of the stove. But it is best if you follow the recipe, as there is a depth of both flavor and texture that develops during poaching that flatters the wine as it deserves to be flattered.

Poached Lamb & Goat Meat Loaf with Parsnip Puree

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons olive oil, lard or butter

1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice

6 garlic cloves, minced

Kosher salt

1 pound ground lamb

1 pound ground goat

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 large pastured egg, beaten

1 cup dried (not toasted) bread crumbs or steamed quinoa

¼ cup chopped, fresh, flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon crushed black peppercorns

½ teaspoons ground allspice

Black pepper in a mill

6 ounces blue cheese, such as Point Reyes Original Blue, in small cubes

6 cups homemade meat stock, hot

2 pounds parsnips, trimmed, peeled and cut into cubes

1 Russet potato, peeled and cut into cubes

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

3 tablespoons creme fraiche or heavy cream, plus more as needed

Put the fat into a saute pan set over medium heat, add the onion and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 12 to 15 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 2 minutes more. Season with salt; remove from the heat and set aside.

Put the meats into a medium mixing bowl. Add the mustard, egg, bread crumbs, parsley, tablespoon of peppercorns and allspice. Add the cooled onion and garlic and mix thoroughly.

Season with several turns of black pepper and a generous few pinches of salt and mix again. Fold in the blue cheese and mix lightly, leaving cubes whole.

Turn the mixture onto a work surface and form a roll about 3½ to 4 inches in diameter. Wrap the roll in a double layer of cheesecloth and use kitchen twine to tie it on both ends.

Set a fish poacher or similar container over two medium-high burners and pour in the hot stock. Carefully lower the meatloaf into the liquid and add the parsnips and potatoes. If the meatloaf is not fully covered, add water.

When the liquid boils, reduce the heat to low and simmer very gently for 40 minutes.

Turn off the heat and use a wide slotted spoon to transfer the potatoes and parsnips to a bowl. Cover the pot, and let the meatloaf rest for 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, pass the parsnips and potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer into a medium saucepan. Add the butter, about a tablespoon at a time, and whip well between additions. Add the creme fraiche or cream, taste and season with salt and pepper. If the mixture seems a bit too thick, add more creme fraiche or cream. Cover to keep warm.

Remove the meatloaf from the stock, set on a rack over a plate or pan and let drain while you reheat the parsnips over very low heat. Cut the ends of the cheesecloth, unwrap the meatloaf and cut it into ½-inch rounds.

Divide the parsnip puree among individual plates, add the meatloaf alongside and drizzle with just a bit of the poaching liquid. Serve right away.