Bring a taste of the South to Thanksgiving

Like many chefs, Annie Simmons looks forward to Thanksgiving more than any other holiday.

In fact, she loves it so much that she cooks it twice — the weekend before at her own house, and the following Thursday at her mother-in-law's home.

'It's my favorite holiday because it's about fellowship and gratitude and spending time with family and friends,' she said. 'It forces you to slow down.'

For the past three years, Simmons has also been cooking a third Thanksgiving at Ramekins in Sonoma, where she teaches students savory Southern favorites like Scalloped Sweet Potatoes with Pecans and Cornbread Stuffing with Country Ham.

'The menu is familiar but it's a little different,' she said of the seasonal dishes. 'It's a little outside your usual green bean casserole.'

When Simmons first visited friends in the South in her early 20s, the West Coast native was immediately captivated, despite the culture shock.

'I was really surprised at the warmth of the Southern hospitality, and the food goes along with that,' she said. 'There's a generosity there, to be richer with butter and cream... and not to be apologetic about it.'

So when she opened her own breakfast and lunch cafe, Topsy's Kitchen, in downtown Petaluma earlier this year, she wanted to introduce some of her favorite Southern dishes, such as New Orleans-style Beignets and Jam, Fried Chicken and Waffles, Buttermilk Biscuits and Country Sausage Gravy.

The cafe has grown so popular that Simmons plans to keep it open for family-style dinners on a few weekend nights in the near future.

Meanwhile, she shared the secrets of her favorite, Southern-style, Thanksgiving dishes earlier this month at Ramekins, starting with Corn and Shrimp Beignets appetizers.

'These are like a fritter, but they're not heavy,' she said. 'The dough gets nice and puffy... and the beer gives them a yeasty flavor.'

For the beignets, Simmons suggests using frozen corn if you can't find fresh, and buying any shrimp that looks fresh.

'In the South, you can get really fresh shrimp,' she said. 'I usually use rock shrimp or bay shrimp.'

You can make the dough a day ahead of time, then add the shrimp right before you are ready to fry. Her trick is to drop the beignets into the oil with a small ice cream scoop, and she makes sure the oil is deep enough for them to be submerged.

To tell if they are done, pull a golden one out and cut into it, she said. If it's done, then cook the rest until they are the same color.

Instead of brining the bird, Simmons dry salts the turkey a day in advance, then brushes off the excess salt and adds a barbecue-inspired dry rub before roasting. The rub is a blend of ancho chiles, garlic, orange juice, brown sugar, smoked paprika and smoked salt.

'The turkey does get really dark brown, from the chiles and the brown sugar,' she said. 'But the skin is really good. My husband loves it all crispy.'

To keep the turkey meat moist, she cooks it breast side down, then turns it breast side up during the final half hour. To check for doneness, she suggests buying a digital probe thermometer, with a wire that connects through the oven door (about $20).

For the gravy, Simmons deglazes the pan with port and tastes the gravy to make sure the drippings did not add too much salt. If it's too salty, you can dilute it with extra turkey or chicken broth.

There's no dish more iconically Southern than a Cornbread Stuffing with Country Ham. Simmons adds carrots and parsnips to her version to give it an earthy flavor.

Simmons always stuffs the turkey with aromatics, such as onions and oranges, and cooks the stuffing separately. 'I think both the turkey and the stuffing turn out best with individual attention,' she said.

If you want to make your own cornbread , she suggests using a fine-ground cornmeal, such as the one made by Bob's Red Mill. You can order a country ham from your butcher, or simply use a smoked ham.

'Use what's convenient,' she said. 'You can make an easy Jiffy cornbread or simply buy corn muffins.'

Instead of the usual mashed sweet potatoes topped with marshmallows, Simmons offers a toothsome alternative: Scalloped Sweet Potatoes with Pecans.

'I like the texture of this dish,' she said. 'And the nutty streusel on top is a delicious bonus.'

What green vegetable is not made tastier with some bacon and a splash of cream? Her Butter Beans with Bacon, Cream and Scallions are so irresistible, even the kids will gobble them up. (Just don't tell them they're really lima beans).

Finally, for a twist on the traditional cranberry relish, Simmons suggests a Roasted Cranberry-Pear Relish, spiced up with cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and jalapeno.

'We roast them instead of throwing them in the pan with sugar,' she said of the relish, which is sweetened by sugar and ruby port.

Finally, as a sweet finale, Simmons salutes the South with a Hickory Nut Pie. The nuts remind her of a walk through the woods in the fall, because they carry a whiff of smokiness.

'The hickory nuts are similar to pecans, but the shape is flatter like a walnut,' she said. 'This recipe will make a beautiful pecan pie if you want to substitute them.'

Topped with a dollop of Whiskey Whipped Cream, the pie is guaranteed to slow you down. It may even land you on the sofa for a post-butter/cream/whiskey nap.

'These are always the first appetizer to disappear at our family gatherings,' Simmons said. 'I like to use the Smoked Chipotle Jam from Kozlowski Farm.'

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Shrimp and Corn Beignets

Makes about 15 beignets

1 cup sweet pepper jelly2 tablespoons apple cider (or champagne) vinegar8 cups vegetable or peanut oil, for frying2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour1 tablespoon baking powder1 teaspoon salt½ teaspoon Old Bay or Chesapeake seasoning¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper¼ cup thinly sliced scallions or chives1 bottle lager or amber beer (not IPA or dark beer)1½ cups fresh-cut corn kernels (or well-drained canned corn)1 pound small, fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails removed (pat dry if they are wet)— Kosher salt, for seasoning

In a small bowl, combine pepper jelly and vinegar and stir until well-combined and smooth. Cover and refrigerate until beignets are ready to serve. (Can be done one day in advance).

Heat oil in a cast-iron pot or a heavy, deep saucepan to 350 degrees.

While the oil is heating, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, Old Bay, cayenne and sliced scallions. Make a well in the center and slowly pour in the beer, whisking gently until the batter comes together. If the mixture seems very thick, add a teaspoon of water to thin slightly (the consistency should be like buttermilk pancake batter).

Fold the corn and shrimp into the batter and scoop about a tablespoon and a half of the mixture up (make sure there's at least one shrimp in there). Gently drop the mixture into the oil and repeat until you are frying 4-5 beignets at once. Cook about 1 minute per side and remove beignets to a paper-towel-lined tray when they are puffy and golden. Bring oil back up to 350 degrees and repeat with remaining butter.

Season hot beignets lightly with salt and serve with the sweet pepper sauce.

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Barbecue Salt-Rubbed Roast turkey

Serves 10 to 12

1 12-14 pound turkey (fresh or thoroughly defrosted)1 cup kosher salt2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded4 large cloves garlic⅓ cup orange juice2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup brown sugar1 teaspoon smoked paprika2 teaspoons smoked salt (or regular salt)1 teaspoon black peppercorns (crushed)1 large onion, quartered1 orange, quartered½ cup port or red wine2 tablespoons unsalted butter2 tablespoons unbleached flour4 cups turkey or chicken broth

At least one day and up to 38 hours prior to roasting, pat turkey dry and place on multiple layers of plastic wrap. Cover bird inside and out with kosher salt, wrap tightly in plastic, place in a large plastic bag and refrigerate.

In a cast-iron skillet set over high heat, toast the chiles, turning once, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and cover with ½cup boiling water and soak for 15 minutes. While the chiles are reconstituting, char the garlic cloves in the hot skillet until black spots appear on the surface. Transfer chiles and their liquid to a blender along with garlic, orange juice, oil, brown sugar, smoked paprika, smoked salt and peppercorns and puree until smooth, about 20 seconds. Set barbecue rub aside. (This can be done the day before if you like.)

Heat oven to 500 degrees and place a rack in bottom third of oven. Unwrap turkey and brush off any excess salt that clings to the skin. Rub turkey all over with the barbecue rub and stuff with onions and oranges. Transfer turkey (breast side up ) to a rack set in a roasting pan. Roast for 30 minutes, then lower heat to 325 degrees and cook for 30 minutes more. Remove the turkey from oven and, using kitchen towels and/or tongs to protect your hands, turn turkey breast side down. Roast, basting occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a thigh registers 140 degrees, about 2½ hours total for a 14-pound turkey. Turn turkey once more to breast side up and finish roasting for the last 30 minutes. The internal temperature should be 155 degrees (the turkey will continue to cook up to 30 minutes after it's removed from the oven.) Remove turkey from oven, cover loosely with foil and allow to rest at least 45 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, add port to the roasting pan and begin to cook over high heat. Scrape up any brown bits and stir until mixture has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Set a sieve over a bowl, strain the liquid and discard the solids. Skim and discard any fat floating on top and set liquid aside.

Melt butter in a skillet set over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the flour over the butter and stir together until a paste is formed. Add broth and reserved liquid, bring to a low simmer and whisk occasionally until gravy is smooth and thickened and the flour taste has cooked out, about 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt or pepper if necessary. Carve turkey and serve with gravy.

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Cornbread Stuffing with Country Ham and Root Vegetables

Serves 10 to 12

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter4 celery ribs, finely diced2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely diced2 medium yellow onions, peeled and finely diced2 carrots, peeled and finely diced2 teaspoons kosher salt6 to 8 ounces smoked country ham, cut into small dice or shredded6 cups coarsely crumbled cornbread, left to dry overnight2 cups fresh white bread cubes, lightly toasted1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried)1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 teaspoon poultry seasoning2 to 2½ cups ham stock, chicken or turkey stock— Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste— Butter for baking dish

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Heat butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add celery, garlic, onions, carrots and parsnips. Saute for a few minutes until onions turn translucent. Season vegetables with salt. Stir in ham. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

Combine crumbled cornbread, bread cubes, sage, thyme, parsley and poultry seasoning in a large bowl. Add vegetables and ham and 1 cup stock and fold everything together gently. Pour in remaining stock, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer dressing to a buttered 9-inch x 13-inch baking dish, cover with foil or a lid, and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake 15 minutes more until top is golden brown.

(You can assemble stuffing a day or two ahead, cover and refrigerate until it's time to bake)

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Scalloped Sweet Potatoes and Pecans

Serves 6 to 8

6 medium-large garnet yams or dark orange sweet potatoes2 cups heavy cream1 cup whole milk2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour2 teaspoons kosher salt½ cup brown sugar1 teaspoon ground cardamom¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg— Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated1 tablespoon butter, meltedFor topping:1 cup brown sugar1 cup all-purpose flour½ teaspoon ground cinnamon½ teaspoon ground nutmeg¼ teaspoon salt8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, chilled1½ cups chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Peel the yams and slice in half lengthwise. Lay flat and slice thinly. Put sliced sweet potatoes in a large bowl and pour the heavy cream over the top. Set aside.

In a small bowl or glass measuring cup, whisk together the milk and flour until thoroughly combined and no lumps remain. Add salt, brown sugar, cardamom, nutmeg and lemon zest. Mix thoroughly, and pour mixture over sliced sweet potatoes and cream. Fold everything together.

Brush melted butter inside a large casserole dish and scoop sweet potatoes into the dish. Press the potatoes out to the sides and create a fairly even layer throughout, pour over any remaining cream mixture, cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes.

For streusel: While sweet potatoes are baking, place the cup of brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt into the bowl of a food processor and pulse for 10-15 seconds until thoroughly combined. Cube chilled butter and add to the sugar-flour mixture. Process until butter is incorporated and mixture turns crumbly. Add pecans and pulse 3-4 times, just enough to mix in nuts but still keeping them in large pieces. Set pecan streusel in refrigerator until needed. (can be made a day ahead).

After sweet potatoes have baked for 30 minutes, remove the dish from teh oven adn remove the foil. Evenly sprinkle the pecan streusel over the top and return the dish to the oven, uncovered, until potatoes are cooked through and topping is deep golden brown, about 45 minutes more.

Allow dish to set for at least 30 minute before serving.

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Butter beans are the same thing as baby lima beans.

Butter Beans with Bacon, Cream and ScallionsServes 6 to 8

4 cups fresh, shelled butter beans (or fresh or frozen baby limas)1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional to taste3 to 4 ounces applewood-smoked bacon, diced2 cloves garlic, minced3 to 4 fresh scallions, sliced thinly1 cup heavy cream¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the butter beans in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer and add 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, partially covered, for 20-30 minutes, until the beans are very tender but not mushy. If using frozen beans, reduce cooking time to 5 minutes. Drain the beans and set aside. Return pan to the heat and add the diced bacon.

Cook bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until bacon is crisp and fat is completely rendered. Remove bacon to a paper towel-lined bowl or small plate, and discard all but about 1 tablespoons of the rendered fat.

Turn heat under the pan to low and add the garlic. Saute for a few minutes until garlic turns a light gold color, then add in the drained beans, scallions, cream, pepper and bacon. Turn up the heat to medium-high and cook until the cream begins to bubble. Stir mixture for a few minutes until cream is reduced and slightly thickened. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

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Roasted Cranberry-Pear Relish

Makes 3 cups

1 orange1 pound fresh cranberries1 cup granulated sugar2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 teaspoon kosher salt4 green cardamom pods, smashed4 whole cloves2 sticks cinnamon½ small jalapeño, stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced2 tablespoons ruby port2 ripe, fragrant pears, cored and diced

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Using a peeler, remove peel from the orange, taking off as little of the white pith as possible. Cut the peel into very thin strips. Squeeze juice from the orange and set aside.

In a bowl, combine the orange peel, cranberries, sugar, olive oil, salt, cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon and jalapeño. Toss and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast until cranberries begin to burst and release their juices, about 15 minutes.

Transfer cranberry mixture to a bowl. Stir in reserved orange juice, port and diced pear. Let sit for at least one hour so flavors marry. Remove and discard cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon stick.

If done ahead of time and refrigerated, bring to room temperature before serving.

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Hickory Nut Pie with Whiskey Cream

Serves 8

1 9 to 10-inch Pie Crust (recipe below)4 eggs1 cup packed dark brown sugar¾ cup golden syrup or light corn syrup2 ounces (½ stick) butter, melted1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract2 tablespoons bourbon whiskey1 teaspoon kosher salt2 cups raw hickory nuts (or pecans)For whiskey cream:2 cups heavy cream1 tablespoon brown sugar1 tablespoon bourbon whiskey

Preheat oven to 400 degrees

In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs well. Add the sugar, golden syrup, salt, vanilla and bourbon to eggs and mix together thoroughly. After everything is combined, slowly add melted butter to the filling and whisk together.

Pour hickory nuts into the pie crust in an even layer and cover with the egg-sugar mixture.

Place pie on the middle rack in the oven and bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 325 degrees. Bake pie for an additional 45 minutes or until filling is puffed up and the top is deep, golden brown.

Allow pie to cool for an hour before serving. While waiting, make the whiskey cream: Whisk together heavy cream, brown sugar and bourbon until thick. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

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Pie Crust

Makes 1 pie

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoon kosher salt4 ounces (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces3 tablespoon cold water½ teaspoon apple cider vinegar

In a food processor, combine the flour and slat and mix for 10 seconds. Add the butter and pulse just until you have a crumbly, sandy mixture. You should still be able to see large pieces of butter. Stir the water and vinegar together and sprinkle over the flour-butter mixture. Pulse a few times, just until a loose dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap, cover completely and refrigerate at least 30 minutes before using.

Staff writer Diane Peterson can be reached at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com