Bring a taste of the South to Thanksgiving
Like many chefs, Annie Simmons looks forward to Thanksgiving more than any other holiday.
In fact, she loves it so much that she cooks it twice — the weekend before at her own house, and the following Thursday at her mother-in-law's home.
'It's my favorite holiday because it's about fellowship and gratitude and spending time with family and friends,' she said. 'It forces you to slow down.'
For the past three years, Simmons has also been cooking a third Thanksgiving at Ramekins in Sonoma, where she teaches students savory Southern favorites like Scalloped Sweet Potatoes with Pecans and Cornbread Stuffing with Country Ham.
'The menu is familiar but it's a little different,' she said of the seasonal dishes. 'It's a little outside your usual green bean casserole.'
When Simmons first visited friends in the South in her early 20s, the West Coast native was immediately captivated, despite the culture shock.
'I was really surprised at the warmth of the Southern hospitality, and the food goes along with that,' she said. 'There's a generosity there, to be richer with butter and cream... and not to be apologetic about it.'
So when she opened her own breakfast and lunch cafe, Topsy's Kitchen, in downtown Petaluma earlier this year, she wanted to introduce some of her favorite Southern dishes, such as New Orleans-style Beignets and Jam, Fried Chicken and Waffles, Buttermilk Biscuits and Country Sausage Gravy.
The cafe has grown so popular that Simmons plans to keep it open for family-style dinners on a few weekend nights in the near future.
Meanwhile, she shared the secrets of her favorite, Southern-style, Thanksgiving dishes earlier this month at Ramekins, starting with Corn and Shrimp Beignets appetizers.
'These are like a fritter, but they're not heavy,' she said. 'The dough gets nice and puffy... and the beer gives them a yeasty flavor.'
For the beignets, Simmons suggests using frozen corn if you can't find fresh, and buying any shrimp that looks fresh.
'In the South, you can get really fresh shrimp,' she said. 'I usually use rock shrimp or bay shrimp.'
You can make the dough a day ahead of time, then add the shrimp right before you are ready to fry. Her trick is to drop the beignets into the oil with a small ice cream scoop, and she makes sure the oil is deep enough for them to be submerged.
To tell if they are done, pull a golden one out and cut into it, she said. If it's done, then cook the rest until they are the same color.
Instead of brining the bird, Simmons dry salts the turkey a day in advance, then brushes off the excess salt and adds a barbecue-inspired dry rub before roasting. The rub is a blend of ancho chiles, garlic, orange juice, brown sugar, smoked paprika and smoked salt.
'The turkey does get really dark brown, from the chiles and the brown sugar,' she said. 'But the skin is really good. My husband loves it all crispy.'
To keep the turkey meat moist, she cooks it breast side down, then turns it breast side up during the final half hour. To check for doneness, she suggests buying a digital probe thermometer, with a wire that connects through the oven door (about $20).
For the gravy, Simmons deglazes the pan with port and tastes the gravy to make sure the drippings did not add too much salt. If it's too salty, you can dilute it with extra turkey or chicken broth.
There's no dish more iconically Southern than a Cornbread Stuffing with Country Ham. Simmons adds carrots and parsnips to her version to give it an earthy flavor.
Simmons always stuffs the turkey with aromatics, such as onions and oranges, and cooks the stuffing separately. 'I think both the turkey and the stuffing turn out best with individual attention,' she said.
If you want to make your own cornbread , she suggests using a fine-ground cornmeal, such as the one made by Bob's Red Mill. You can order a country ham from your butcher, or simply use a smoked ham.
'Use what's convenient,' she said. 'You can make an easy Jiffy cornbread or simply buy corn muffins.'
Instead of the usual mashed sweet potatoes topped with marshmallows, Simmons offers a toothsome alternative: Scalloped Sweet Potatoes with Pecans.
'I like the texture of this dish,' she said. 'And the nutty streusel on top is a delicious bonus.'
What green vegetable is not made tastier with some bacon and a splash of cream? Her Butter Beans with Bacon, Cream and Scallions are so irresistible, even the kids will gobble them up. (Just don't tell them they're really lima beans).
Finally, for a twist on the traditional cranberry relish, Simmons suggests a Roasted Cranberry-Pear Relish, spiced up with cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and jalapeno.
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