It’s not the time to cry over the end of tomato season or bemoan the lack of fresh green beans, zucchini and chilies. There is plenty to celebrate at this time of year and not just the glorious rain we’ve enjoyed recently. It’s time for citrus, for Meyer and Eureka lemons, Mandarin oranges, pomelos and more, for pomegranates, cranberries, pears and late ripening apples, for kiwi.
It is also time for persimmons, which are everywhere at our farmers markets but also in full view throughout the country. Sometimes all you have to do is look up and there they are, bright jewels glistening in the fog and mist. Most trees produce more than a single family can use and it’s common to see boxes filled with the beautiful orange globes, an inviting sign declaring “Free!” attached.
Although there are many varieties of persimmons, to understand them it is easiest to focus first on the two most common commercial varieties, the Fuyu and the Hachiya. The Fuyu has a flat bottom and flat top, with thickish skin; it is a firm-ripe fruit that you can enjoy as you enjoy an apple or cut into thin slices and tossed with, say, arugula and pomegranates, for a delightful winter salad. Pair it with sliced avocado, sliced pears and a mound of Dungeness crab, roasted turkey or roasted chicken for a light lunch. It is delicious with lamb, especially rare lamb chops. This persimmon is available dried, in thin crosswise slices.
The Hachiya is elongated and nearly heart-shaped, with broad shoulders narrowing to a pointed tip. When fully ripe, it’s skin is very thin and its pulp very soft; eat it before this point and it makes you pucker from its strong astringency. It is the persimmon typically used in persimmon cookies, cakes and puddings.
Before they are ripe, Hachiya persimmons are used to make hoshigakis, in which the persimmon is peeled and dried whole in the open, a process that takes several weeks and results in a delicious, chewy dried fruit. If you are vigilant and rigorous in your attention — each persimmon must be gently massaged daily — you will be rewarded with a delicious morsel covered in white, sugary crystals.
If you already love persimmons, look at your local farmers markets for some of the less common varieties, the deeply-colored Chocolate Persimmon, for example, and one with a taste of coffee and cinnamon known as the Coffeecake Persimmon.
Persimmons ripen when we most need them, after trees have dropped their leaves and days have turned a monotone gray. They are an underrated fruit, used at least as often as table decoration as for food, but they are delicious. Here is a yummy way to use the Hachiya persimmon, the one many people find daunting because of its texture when fully ripe.
Broiled Persimmons with Kiwi and Pomegranates
4 ripe Hachiya persimmons
⅓ cup, packed, dark brown sugar
4 teaspoons butter, chilled and very thinly sliced
8 firm-ripe kiwi, peeled and chilled
4 tablespoons créme fraiche, chilled
¾ cup (from 1 large) pomegranate arils
4 thin lime wedges
Set the broiler rack at least 3 inches from the flame or heating coil and preheat the broiler of your oven. Cut each persimmon in half lengthwise. Set the persimmon halves on a baking sheet and sprinkle brown sugar over each half, covering the entire surface of the fruit. Top each persimmon with a few thin slices of butter. Set the persimmons under the broiler and cook until the butter and sugar have melted and begun to sizzle.
THIS WEEK’S BLIND TASTING
Cabernet Sauvignon, the venerable statesman
Rodney Strong, 2015 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5% alcohol, $20. ★★★★
This is a cab that clearly overdelivers. It has generous fruit — black cherry and black raspberry — with herbs and spicy oak. It has good structure with firm tannins and a nice length.
J. Lohr, 2015 Hilltop, Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.9%, $35. ★★★★: This is a pretty cab with black raspberry fruit, herbs and spice, and the flavors meld together seamlessly. The cab has good balance, ripe tannins and a lingering finish. It’s well-crafted.
Duckhorn, 2014 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.9%, $98. ★★★★: This is a gorgeous cab with notes of black raspberry fruit, and notes of cinnamon and clove in the mix. It has a soft and supple texture, with ripe tannins. Nice length. Striking.
Cliff Lede, 2015 Stag’s Leap District, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 15%, $78. ★★★★: This is a striking cab with complex aromas and flavors. It has notes of jasmine, black currant, blackberry, cinnamon and black pepper. The Cliff Lede has bright acidity and great balance. Top rate.
Justin, 2015 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5%, $25. ★★★1/2: This is a savory cab with dried herbs at the forefront, while cherry and black currant fruit play backup. What melds it together is a hint of caramel. Smart.