Cox: New OSO packs ‘em in

Chef David Bush’s last gig, at St. Francis winery, earned him “Best Restaurant in America 2013” by Open Table users. So his new venture, OSO on the Sonoma plaza, was eagerly awaited. Now that the wait is over, it may be that he’s trying too hard.

Before getting to his food, let’s start with the room. It’s a long, narrow, stylish space with tables on the left side as you enter and a bar on the right. So when the place is packed, as it was on a recent night, you barely have room to pick your way down the aisle. Toward the back is an open kitchen on the right, illuminated by red lights and paired with black walls.

Kids are not allowed; it’s for patrons 21 and older. If the reason for excluding children is that their crying might annoy patrons, not to worry. No child would be heard above the din. The sound level was loud when we arrived and by 7 p.m. it achieved lift-off. The cacophony made conversation impossible, even by shouting.

The servers did a fine job, considering the place was packed full of customers.

The menu is eclectic. It makes a serious nod to Japanese cuisine with its raw fish of the day, chosen by the chef. At our visit, it was hamachi, at $16. Our party went Peruvian, however, and ordered the Ceviche ($12 ?? ). Raw rock cod and salmon had been marinated in a bland citrus sauce that could have used more lime juice. The rock cod was chewy and the salmon softened by the marinade almost to a liquid, indicating it had lingered in its bath too long. The fish was set on a fennel, red onion, and radicchio slaw topped with avocado.

Raw oysters are available at $18 for a half dozen and $32 for a dozen, which made a dozen the most expensive item on the menu except for a seafood platter of oysters, pickled shrimp, ceviche, and a crudo of the day. Everything else was under $20.

For instance, Winter Vegetables ($12 ?? ½) included well-done Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and broccoli florets, and carrots, plus crunchy chips that looked like they were sliced off a parsnip but tasted only of salt. The dish was dressed in a preserved Meyer lemon vinaigrette; the combination of acidic citrus and salt stepped on the delicate flavors of the vegetables.

Baked Mussels ($14 ? ½) came with a surprise. Down under the shellfish, in the salty miso broth that mingled with the juices of the mussels, were chicken and ginger meatballs and matchstick-cut radishes. Of the first three mussels I pulled out onto my share plate, two were unopened, which threw suspicion upon the whole dish. Unopened shellfish should never leave the kitchen, as they may be rotten.

Braised Lamb Shoulder ($14 ?? ½) was well prepared but the plate was a hodge-podge of too many things going on: cotija cheese, chorizo sausage, many kinds of vegetables. It was just too overwrought to do justice to the nice piece of lamb. If that was a hodge-podge, the Seared New York Steak ($18 ?? ) was a mishmash. The steak was nicely cooked medium-rare and sliced, but it lay on a bed of kim chi, the spicy pickled Korean cabbage. Butternut squash made an appearance. Pickled shiitake mushrooms weighed in. Ponzu sauce was splashed on. Talk about worlds in collision!

Chef Bush has brought his knowledge of wine pairing with him, and the wine list is extensive and interesting - and nicely priced. Prosecco is enjoying its moment in the sun right now, and there’s one from Tenuta Giavi for $39. Among whites, the 2013 Gordian Knot, a Russian River Valley albarino, is $46. Crazy good reds include the 2011 Bucklin “Ancient Vines” for $49, made from some of the oldest vines in Sonoma County.

In addition, there are 23 wines by the glass, including that fabulous Bucklin.

Dessert was Butterscotch Pot de Crème ($6 ?? ) that gave a hint of butterscotch.

To sum up: Sometimes less is more.

Jeff Cox writes a weekly restaurant review for the Sonoma Living section. He can be reached at jeffcox@sonic.net.