Wine of the week: Three Sticks, 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

What most people don’t know about pinot noir is that it’s a package.

“The uninitiated view of pinot noir is as a lighter red, but the truly great pinots can have amazing depth and complexity wrapped in a polished and elegant package,” said Don Van Staaveren, the winemaker of Sonoma’s Three Stick Wines.

Van Staaveren is the winemaker behind our wine-of-the-week winner -- Three Sticks, 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir at $65. The quality makes it a holiday red worthy of a splurge for those who can afford it.

This lush pinot is a knockout. It’s a tasty melding of generous ripe, red fruit, cola, herbs and spice, with a lingering finish.

“The most gratifying part of making pinot noir is when everything comes together like in this Gaps Crown,” Van Staaveren said. “I enjoy seeing people’s reactions when the first sniff and sip happen and then they come back for more.”

Van Staaveren is no rookie. He drew quite a bit of attention to Sonoma winemaking when his 1996 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages was the first Sonoma wine to receive the Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” accolade.

After graduating from Cal Poly in 1976, Van Staaveren began as a harvest temporary worker at Kenwood’s Chateau St. Jean. There he learned how to make wine from esteemed vintner Richard Arrowood, and became the winery’s second winemaker when Arrowood left.

After serving as winemaker for 20 years, he joined Codorniu Napa and helped transform the sparkling-wine house into Artesa Winery, crafting its still wines. In late 2004, Van Staaveren joined Three Sticks.

The winemaker is a fan of pinot noir, especially during the holidays.

“I think pinot is very versatile,” Van Staaveren said. “During the fall and early winter, the warmth and texture of pinot noir seems to be a natural fit of the season. The flavor of pinot complements a wide variety of dishes and occasions. I think pinot noir is a gracious wine.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@gmail.com.

The Press Democrat Wine of the Week: Scouting for the tastiest holiday reds worth the splurge.

Wine writer Peg Melnik had a blind tasting this week of reds, including cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and syrah-based blends. Our wine-of-the-week winner is Three Sticks, 2012 Gaps Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir at $65.

TOP PICK

Three Sticks, 2012 Gaps Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 15 percent alcohol, $65. ????

This lush pinot makes a great impression. It’s a tasty melding of generous bright red fruit, cola, herbs and spice. Lingering finish. Knockout.

Other impressive wines

Relentless, 2011 Napa Valley Red Blend, 15.8 percent, $80. ????

1/2 This syrah-based blend is meaty and smoky, sassy and seamless -- not an easy feat to craft. Notes of plum, fig, forest floor and cracked black pepper. It’s 91 percent syrah and 9 percent petite sirah, and it wears the blend well.

B.R. Cohn, 2010 Olive Hill Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent, $56. ????

A cab with great structure and a silky texture. It has a lovely core of fruit. Notes of cherry, plum, herbs and subtle spice. Nice length. Impressive.

Louis M. Martini, 2011 Lot No. 1, Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.4 percent, $145. ????

1/2 This cab is worth the splurge for those with disposable income. It has great structure and an impressive core of fruit. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, cassis, herbs and spice. A rock star.

Lynmar Estate, 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Old Vines, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 14.3 percent, $60. ????

This is a decadent pinot that will appeal to hedonists. It’s complex, layered and lush. Aromas and flavors of cherry, cola and sandalwood. Striking.

Sea Smoke “Southing,” Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir, 14.5 percent, $60. ????

A gorgeous pinot with crisp acidity, bright cherry fruit and great minerality. Not-to-be-missed. A standout.