Homegrown: Changing the face of a garden

When a neighbor once described his small farm as a place where you move fences around, it made me think that my garden must be a place where I move plants around. Often the shift is just a few inches; other times, a foot or more, or - not infrequently - to a completely different area.

The move could be just minutes after planting or it might be more than a year before I realize that it’s the wrong plant in the wrong place. Without fail, I ask myself, “What was I thinking?” Or “Why couldn’t I see that?”

Altering a garden’s layout usually happens with these kinds of incidental changes, but in the past few years, we’re seeing more dramatic adjustments as lawns come out and entirely new plant palettes go in.

Oddly enough, the questions that accompany such changes are about the same: “Why were we thinking that a lawn was the answer?” And “Why didn’t we realize there are more suitable plants?”

STARTING OVER

No true gardener could choose the most radical change - eliminating all plants - but most of us could give up at least some of the thirstiest.

If you plan on making changes to conserve water, begin by determining which of your existing plants are able to survive with minimal care and can continue to serve as permanent, structural features in your landscape.

Most trees and large, mature shrubs fall into this category, although many Mediterranean and California native species of smaller shrubs and perennials are quite capable of making it through the dry season on their own or with little irrigation.

With a bare-bones slate before you, it’s often best to take a minimalist approach and begin slowly. Keep in mind that hardscape, such as a pathway, dry creek, patio, or seating area, requires no supplemental water at all and can enhance even a few specimen plants.

Here are a few drought-tolerant species to consider when you’re ready for a change.

EASY-CARE SHRUBS

Bluebeard (Caryopteris x clandonensis), sometimes called blue mist, is winter hardy, but stems may die to the ground in very cold years, then return again in spring. Severe pruning is needed to maintain shrubs at 18 to 24 inches and to promote dense new growth that erupts into clouds of bluish mist in late summer, attracting bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects.

Bluebeard will not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils in winter. Give it moderate moisture until established then infrequent irrigation. Cover the root zone with 4 inches of organic mulch.

Hollyleaf osmanthus Goshiki (O. heterophyllus Goshiki) brings valuable texture and color to the garden in its evergreen foliage. New growth erupts with pink and orange tints and matures into creamy yellow and green variegation on a small shrub that very slowly reaches 3 to 4 feet. Insignificant flowers appear in fall and winter.

Drought-tolerant when established, Goshiki needs infrequent summer irrigation, particularly in part shade. It is always ignored by deer.

VERSATILE GROUNDCOVERS

Low-growing Lantana montevidensis blooms year-round in mild microclimates, as it has nearly everywhere throughout the North Coast this past winter. Lilac-purple flower clusters clothe long, thin stems, often mingling with nearby plants.

Its trailing branches sprawl as a low groundcover, but when sheared, woody branches will mound. Give it moderate moisture until established, then infrequent irrigation. Cover the root zone with 4 inches of organic mulch.

Low-growing manzanitas (Arctostaphylos) are a sturdy standby throughout California for groundcovers. Emerald Carpet is one of the most popular but the most drought-tolerant is the cultivar Point Reyes.

PERENNIAL HELLEBORES

After months of bloom, hellebore blossoms are beginning to fade now as spring growth emerges, providing distinctive evergreen foliage year-round in graceful, arching displays 12 to 30 inches high and wide.

Christmas rose (H. niger), Lenten rose (H. orientalis), and their hybrids dangle blossoms from atop slim stems in colors ranging from white to pale green to plum purple. Corsican hellebore (H. argutifolius) and bear’s foot hellebore (H. foetidus) carry trusses of limey green, bell-shaped blossoms on stouter stems.

Cut all old stems to the ground leaving only new shoots standing. Winter sun suits them very well, but in summer hellebores require afternoon shade.

Most garden advice suggests moderate watering, but in my garden, hellebores thrive with drip irrigation for a few minutes 2 to 3 times a week in summer. Bear’s foot hellebore and its deep green, long, narrow leaflets manage with even less moisture. All self-sow readily.

Rosemary McCreary, a Sonoma County gardener, gardening teacher, and author of Tabletop Gardens, writes the monthly Homegrown column for The Press Democrat. Contact her at rosemarymccreary@gmail.com or write to P.O. Box 910, Santa Rosa, 95402.