Wine of the week: Atalon, 2013 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Brian Kosi doesn’t try to micro-manage Mother Nature.

The winemaker of the Kendall-Jackson-owned Atalon brand said: “I pay careful attention in the vineyard and let nature take its course.”

Kosi is behind our wine-of-the-week winner, the Atalon, 2013 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $21. “The vintage of 2013 was a fantastic year to grow grapes,” Kosi said. “In the winery, the fermentation was long and cold. I only gave the wine a kiss of used French oak and stirred both tanks and barrels every other week. Other than that, the wine made itself.”

This is a sauvignon blanc with grassy aromas coupled with rich fruit. It masters tangy, with notes of grapefruit, lemon and lime. The Atalon has a zesty, long-lasting finish. It’s a great value for the caliber of this sauvignon blanc.

Kosi said the house style he’s shooting for is crisp, clean and complex. “I want it to have great depth of flavors, but never over-the-top, and a judicious use of oak,” Kosi said. “I’m inspired by Sancerre.”

Sancerre is an appellation in the eastern part of France’s Loire Valley that’s well-regarded for sauvignon blanc.

Other tasty sauvignon blancs in the flight include:

Merry Edwards, 2013 Russian River Valley, Sauvignon Blanc at $32.

Hanna, 2014 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $19

Novy, 2013 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc at $19.

Kosi said he’s a good fit for making sauvignon blanc because he loves to drink it. “It’s such a refreshing and versatile wine that pairs with a variety of foods,” he said.

Kosi gravitated to wine because of his passion for the culinary arts.

“I started to love cooking and wine in college,” he said. “The more I learned about wine, the more fascinated I became,” Kosi said. “I realized I could sell wine and make wine in my garage like my relatives in Slovenia do.”

After looking into the program offered by UC Davis, Kosi decided to become a winemaker. “I quit my job a month later to pursue my dream,” he said.

Kosi is well respected in Wine Country circles.His Napa Valley winemaking credits include Acacia (Carneros), Opus One and Plumpjack (Oakville), BV (Rutherford ), and the historic Freemark Abbey (St. Helena). “My strength is rooted in my deep passion for what I do,” Kosi said. “I’m always in the vineyard. I’m always experimenting.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.

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This week’s blind tasting: Sauvignon Blancs

TOP PICK

Atalon 2013 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, 13.5% alcohol, $21. ????:

This wine will turn heads. Grassy aromas with bright fruit. It masters tangy with notes of grapefruit, lemon and lime. Zesty, long-lasting finish. The price is surprising for the caliber of this sauvignon blanc.

TASTY ALTERNATIVES

Merry Edwards, 2013 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc, 14.1%, $32. ????

1/2: A complex sauvignon blanc that manages to be both crisp and rich. Tropical, with citrus notes and great minerality. Notes of guava, peach and lime zest. Lovely.

Hanna, 2014 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 13.2%, $19. ????

: This sauvignon blanc explodes with a range of flavors -- grapefruit, guava and lime. It has a spicy undercurrent and good length. Striking.

Novy 2013 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc, 13.1%, $19. ????

: This is a refreshing sauvignon blanc with crisp acid, herbs and citrus notes. Round. Bright and lively. Impressive.

Grgich Hills, 2013 Napa Valley Dry Sauvignon Blanc, 14.1 %, $30. ???

1/2: The note of lemongrass is what gives this distinction. Lovely tropical fruit, with a hint of minerality. Juicy.

Rombauer Vineyards, 2014 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, 14.2%, $24. ???

1/2: Bracing acidity, with notes of grapefruit and white nectarine. Solid.