Wine of the week: MacMurray Ranch, 2013 Russian River Valley Sonoma County Pinot Noir

The pinot noir grape has had a fanatical following for many centuries.

That’s how Boyd Morrison, winemaker of MacMurray Ranch, sees it.

“The nuances of pinot noir are mesmerizing and polarizing at the same time, and luckily for me, wine enthusiasts can’t seem to get enough of it,” he said.

Morrison is behind our wine-of-the-week winner - the MacMurray Ranch, 2013 Russian River Valley Sonoma County Pinot Noir at $28.

It’s a lovely pinot with a great concentration of red fruit coupled with bright acid. It’s layered with notes of herbs and spice. What makes this pinot a standout is its irresistible, bright fruit from start to finish. It’s a lively, food-friendly wine, and it’s a steal because this pinot over-delivers.

What happened behind the scenes to make this a standout?

“It started with a lot of work in MacMurray’s four estate Russian River Valley vineyards,” Morrison explained. “We strive to grow fruit with great depth of color and rich flavors of cherry, pomegranate, lavender and wild mushroom.”

In the process, there’s plenty of trouble-shooting involved, Morrison explained.

“Pinot noir can be quite challenging in the vineyard and fickle in the cellar,” he said. “It’s a very delicate grape, so it requires tremendous care, both when we grow it and when we shepherd its transformation into wine.”

What the uninitiated don’t know about pinot is that it’s subtle, according to Morrison.

“Its strengths are not overt or flashy, yet its impact can be mesmerizing and profound,” Morrison explained. “Additionally, it’s hard for two people to agree on what a great pinot noir should smell, taste and look like.”

Morrison’s foray into wine began with brewing beer at home.

“I was in college and hadn’t declared a major yet, so I looked into grape-growing and winemaking at UC Davis,” Morrison said. “At the same time, I decided to try my hand at helping some family friends make wine and fell in love with the process. All of it. And I’ve been hooked ever since.”

Morrison said he’s among the fanatical about pinot.

“I’m a great fit to make pinot because I would simply not be happy making anything else,” he said. “As I see it, pinot noir is a journey filled with exploration, learning and wonder, one I can’t imagine growing tired of.”

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This week’s blind tasting: Pinot Noir

TOP PICK

MacMurray Ranch, 2013 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.2% alcohol, $28. ????:

A lovely pinot with a great concentration of red fruit coupled with bright acid. It’s layered with notes of herbs and spice. What makes this pinot a standout is its irresistible, bright fruit from start to finish. A lively, food-friendly wine. It’s a steal because this pinot noir over-delivers.

TASTY ALTERNATIVES

Truchard, 2013 Carneros, Napa Valley Pinot Noir, 14.1%, $35. ????

: A racy pinot with full-throttle fruit. Bing cherry, herbs and crisp acid marry well in this wine. Snappy finish. Top rate.

Gary Farrell, 2013 Toboni Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.5%, $55 ????

: A pinot noir that rides on red fruit and crisp acid. Cranberry and pomegranate play into the flavors of this high-toned fruit. Lingering finish. Pricey, but well worth the splurge.

Marimar Estate, 2011 Christina, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 14.5%, $57 ???

1/2: An earthy pinot with firm tannins. Tangy and a touch tart. Layered flavors of cherry, raspberry, anise and white pepper. Nice bones (structure).

Pedroncelli, 2013 Signature Collection, Russian River Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 13.8%, $20. ???

1/2: A medium-bodied pinot that’s uncomplicated. Leads with bright fruit and ends with a spicy finish. Approachable.